Since its appearance in free sale, laminated floor covering has gained a lot of supporters. Indeed, well-selected material and properly completed laying immediately gives the flooring a very neat look with the imitation of a natural wooden coating. And although the flaws of the laminate, too, are quite a lot, and it is very serious, its popularity is high, and, apparently, he took his "niche" seriously and for a long time.
The pronounced advantages of laminate include quite affordable cost (compared to natural coatings imitated) and relatively simple, most often - intuitive laying technology. So, when acquiring such a material, it is quite possible to save, without inviting specialists for installation works, and performing work on their own. Even quite distant from the construction and finishing work the owner of an apartment or at home, in theory, it must be done with the task. Naturally, having received the necessary instruction for this. It is such a goal and puts this publication - laying laminate with your own hands a step-by-step instruction.
Of course, the process of laying the coating itself is inextricably linked to other stages - from the selection of material to comprehensive flooring to the installation of the laminate. However, within the framework of this article, many questions will be omitted. Just for the reason that they are dedicated to individual detailed publications. Therefore, in the course of the presentation, the reader will be offered links to open the corresponding pages of the portal.
Basic requirements for high-quality laminate laying
So that the underlined laminate floor covering showed the long time expected from him, did not lose its pristine fresh species, was not deformed, did not annoy the owners an unpleasant creak, it is necessary to observe a number of important requirements. Their implementation, in essence, and turns into the stages of preparatory activities before carrying out, actually, the installation of laminate. Let's go through them in brief:
Competent choice of material
Laminate should not only be selected in his decorative qualities. Mandatory accurate features of the room in which its laying is planned. The intensity of the coating movement is taken into account whether it will experience loads from street shoes (from which abrasive impact is incomparably higher), or located exclusively in residential rooms.
Attention is drawn to the environmental component of the issue - laminate for residential premises should give minimal formaldehyde emissions (E1) or in general to be completely pure in this regard (E0.5; E0 or ECO).
If the coating is planned for flooring on the "Warm floor" system, the laminate is selected, in which such an opportunity is specifically stipulated.
There is another number of criteria for the choice of laminated coating, recommended for consumer adoption.
But of all the rules there is an exception. The flooring market was replenished with an improved SPC (Stone Polymer Composite) of the luxury class, ideally suitable for any premises.
Quartz laminate Refloor Fargo Combines the strength of stone, aesthetics of natural wood and has a number of significant advantages over other floor coverings:
- choose - easy. Without thinking about the types, categories, types of castle compounds and other characteristics, you can safely acquire quartz laminate for an apartment and office, kindergarten and a medical facility, cafes and a warehouse, a bathroom and a pre-banker.
Refloor Fargo is compatible with all kinds of warm floor systems. The scope of use is very extensive, it remains only to choose one of the interior style one of the thirties of two fashionable shades (today there are 27 options that simulate the valuable wood rocks, and 5 - natural stone, and until the end of 2019 it is planned to replenish the range);
- Security is the main thing. Quartz laminate does not absorb and does not exude odors. Emissions is absent even when heated. The coating relates to the weakly thorough and non-prolonged flame. In addition, Refloor Fargo is not slippery and has a unique "antibony effect", especially relevant in the kitchen, where the likelihood of torture from the hands is large enough. The expensive service will not suffer, and the hostess will not have to remove sharp fragments from the floor.
It is important to pay attention to the antistatic effect of quartz laminate. Not accumulating static electricity The coating is the best solution for both homes and specialized premises, in which electronics (physiotherapy offices, diagnostic centers, recording studios, server, etc.) are placed.
- Quartz laminate - long-term investment in your own comfort and comfort . Camping personal space, always wants to repair to remain fresh as long as possible, despite possible force majeure. Due to the 100% water resistance of the material and the adhesive method of laying, the coating will remain unharmed and if it is accidentally pouring the water bucket, and if the hot water supply pipe breaks. While ordinary laminate will sweep and become unrepretentious, the quartz will have only wipe dry.
Do not forget about mechanical loads that have been experiencing outdoor coating daily. Thin studs, furniture legs, pet claws, office chairs - objects that significantly reduce the service life of ordinary laminate, but not quartz-vinyl. Additional plus to high wear resistance - sound absorption of drum noise up to twenty decibels (a pleasant bonus for residents of multi-storey houses).
The quality of Refloor Fargo is confirmed by laboratory test protocols, fire certificate km 2, certificates of conformity.
Laminate is purchased, including quartz-vinyl, immediately to the entire floor area planned for such a coating. The laying technology implies a certain number of cropping, that is, some stock should be set. The value of the created "reserve" depends on the type of laying - it will be the usual arrangement of boards, parallel-perpendicular to the walls, or there is a desire to mount the coating diagonally (and in this case the amount of waste inevitably increases).
Calculate the required amount of material will help the online calculator below. It contained almost all the variety of laminated boards in practice. The calculation is made immediately taking into account the required stock depending on the type of laying.
Calculator calculating the required amount of laminate for room
Go to calculations
The resulting amount is easy to recalculate into the number of packs and individual boards "ROSSPY" - depending on the taching of the pack of a specifically selectable model.
By the way, it will be quite well to agree immediately with the store employees about the possibility of exchanging defective boards (alas, this is also found, and unobistant defects can already appear when laying the coverage), and return unused material. Many shops are practicing such services.
Preparation of the floor surface
Unlike some other coatings, the laminate requires exceptional evenness and stability of the floor surface. The permissible level of the level of the level is not more than 1 ÷ 2 mm on the trafficphone meter.
Even small protrusions are completely excluded - they will definitely be shortwright to an unpleasant crunch or creak. Unstable, even the slope of the beating base (for example, the old wooden floor), in addition to the creak, can lead to deformation of the castle compounds on the boards with all the ensuing consequences.
Concrete base is desirable to predict the composition of deep penetration, and better with an antiseptic effect. The old wooden base, subject to its complete stability, also does not hurt to treat the composition to prevent the biological damage to the wood.
Immediately before laying a laminated coating, the floor surface must be attacked with thorough cleaning, with the mandatory use of the vacuum cleaner. It is unacceptable to leave even the smallest solid fragments of construction waste - they can give creak board.
Prices for laminate
Responsible task - creating a level and stable base of the floor!
The choice of the method of repairing the floor before laying the laminate depends on the type of base and its initial state. On the pages of our portal a lot of publications dedicated to this particular topic. TAE, for example, a separate article tells about phased floor repair in the apartment . Other - introduces nuances File alignment plywood . For old concrete grounds, use becomes an excellent solution bulk self-leveling floors .
Choose a substrate for laminate
Laying of the laminate involves the mandatory use of a fine elastic substrate. This layer is able to level small surface errors, gives the necessary noise and thermal insulation effect, becomes a kind of damper for rigid boards, excluding their friction on the base surface.
Substrates are different - both by material and in thickness. The optimal, but rather expensive solution are cork canvas. A lot of cheaper options are rolled substrates from foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of polystyrene foam. In some cases, for example, when installing a film infrared "warm floor", it is necessary to apply a substrate with a reflective foil coating. There are also more "exotic" options - it is necessary to be able to understand.
Which substrate for laminate is better to choose?
The durability of the laminated floor coating will depend on the quality of the selected underlining layer. How to choose correctly Substrate under laminate Of the existing manifold materials - read in a special publication of our portal.
Never consider as a possible alternative to the substrate an old coating of carpet. On the surface, by and large, it is generally forbidden to perform laminate laying.
The old linoleum coating is sometimes considered among the possible bases under the floor of the laminate. But it does not eliminate the need to use a thin substrate. Although, by the personal opinion of the author of these lines, it is still better to get rid of the old linoleum, then carry out, if necessary, repairing the surface, and only then lay the laminate to a new substrate. Considerations? - It's hard to predict how old linoleum behaves with time, completely closed with a new flooring, that is, isolated from air contact. Will he not be brittle, provoking the screens, will not be squeezed or eating an unpleasant smell, does any other surprises prevent anything?
To finish with the substrate - another nuance. The laminate does not like high humidity - wood-based materials can begin to flavor, rolling, to give significant surface deformations. Therefore, if necessary, to protect the coating from the penetration of moisture from the bottom, on the basis of the foundation. To a certain extent, it is solved by high-quality primer. But for the floors of the first floor laid on the soil or with the bottom, the unheated basement is recommended for the substrate to lay a layer of vaporizolation. This can be a special membrane intended for such purposes. But it is quite possible to do and cheaper, but no less reliable option - dense, thickness of about 100 μm, polyethylene film.
If the laminate is stacked in the room, the bottom of which is a residential heated room, then the vapor insulation layer is not mandatory.
By the way, some substrates fully cope with the function of the barrier from the penetration of water vapor. An example of this is the modern material "Tuplex", which gives excellent protection and from the spread of noise, and from moisture from the bottom.
Naturally, in the flooring of vapor insulation or substrate with a vapor barrier effect, the sealing of the joints of the canvas should be achieved. When using the film, the nesting of the adjacent bands is made by about 150 mm, followed by a shepherd scotch. The substrate bands are stacked, but also with a schu sampling.
Basic principles of laying laminate
Types of laminate castles
Before starting work, it is necessary to deal with the system of locking boards of the boards. Perhaps several options.
- Currently, it is practically not found on sale, but any can be - there are models involving the laminate compound with adhesive method. The boards have a castle by the type of a regular pair of spike-groove, and without glue, a reliable connection can be created.
The disadvantages of the method are obvious - the work is quite painstaking, requiring increased accuracy. After installing the laminate, it is necessary to give time for a complete burial. The coating is obtained by monolithic (in some cases it can be considered advantage), but if it is necessary to disassemble, then the boards are repeatedly applied to apply it impossible.
- Laminate with a lock connection type "Lock", it seems, also gradually "comes from the scene." These are also a groove and comb (spike), but having such a profile that when applying a certain progressive force is parallel to the laying plane, the lock is snapped by providing the connection of the boards with each other.
This type of laminate on sale is also infrequent. His dignity is a low price, the ability to build a coating on one board. Disadvantages - the need to work with rubber hammer (inquiry), insufficient reliability of the connection. In addition, such a laminate practically does not forgive mistakes - if it is necessary to disassemble incorrectly or poorly laid plot, then the separation of the boards is very often ends with a bummer of the spike of the castle compound. On dismantling coverage with the possibility of its secondary use - it does not even go.
- But the laminate with the lock connection of the "Click" can be dismantled without any problems. The configuration of its groove and spike is such that, to connect, the next board will start in the already laid at a certain angle. And then, after lowering the board to the floor plane level, the lock is triggered, providing a very reliable connection with a practically imperceptible seam line.
But if the board again lift the angle to the manufacturer specified in the manual, it will easily come out of the engagement, and can be removed without any damage.
Impact efforts are practically not required. This allows you to significantly increase the speed of installation and improve the quality of the coating. True, when installing the boards, according to the instructions, it is necessary to first collect the entire row, and then all this strip attach to the previously laid out. On small areas - no problems, but if the bands are obtained long, coordinated actions with the participation of the assistant are required.
True, and this requirement our masters learned to bypass. How it is done - will be shown below.
Prices for a substrate for laminate
Substrate under laminate
- Recently there have been a lot of laminate models with special proprietary locks. In such compound systems, all the advantages of the "Click" connections are saved, but the special design of the lock on the end side of the panel allows you to freely perform installation non-rows, but on one board.
In the end of the head side of the board hidden a movable locking strap, spring-loaded from the inside. When connecting two laminate boards to the end, it is enough to make a slight effort to make a small force so that this latch work and enters into the groove of the attached board. At the same time, there are a coincidence of all curly grooves and protrusions, which ensures the reliability of the connection. One option is shown in the illustration above.
To date, this is perhaps the most convenient connection. True, models with similar locks will be significantly more expensive.
Laminate laying schemes
There are two main laying schemes of laminated coating.
- Boards are located in parallel and perpendicular to the walls of the rectangular room.
It is believed that the lines of the seams between the rows should correspond to the direction of the beams of light from the window - so the joints between the boards become less noticeable. However, this rule is not at all mandatory. Moreover, if a laminate with chamfer is used on the edges - on such a seam coating, on the contrary, it is demonstratively highlighted. And they can be positioned depending on the expected effect. For example, in a narrow room, the position of the boards perpendicular to the direction of light gives the illusion of some expansion of space.
When laying and laying boards, a certain order may be observed.
а- There is no pronounced order of layout of the boards. As a rule, the next row begins with trimming remaining after laying the previous row. If, of course, it allows the length of this segment - for various models, manufacturers indicate a minimum of 200 to 400 mm. In the location of transverse butts of the boards, no patterns are traced, except for the minimum allowable displacement (again, from 200 to 400 mm, depending on the model).
б- Lovers of strict order often prefer the "brickwork" scheme. In this case, the displacement of the transverse seams is done exactly half the length of the laminated board.
в- Another example of an ordered arrangement of boards. Each regular row shifts exactly one third of the boards. It turns out a neat "Lestenka". If it allows the length of the laminated board and the minimum permissible length of the short fragment, then another step of the transverse seam shifting step can be selected, for example, by a quarter of length, per fifth, and the like.
It should be noted that in cases b. or at. It is not excluded a slightly higher consumption of material, as some trimming simply may not find applications.
In any case, it is very useful to pre-draw a layout scheme made on a scale taking into account the size of the room and the size of one board. So you can find the optimal solution that gives the minimum amount of cropping.
The illustration shows two examples such schemes. Dark brown are highlighted boards that fit completely without cutting. Light brown - boards, which are cut into two parts, each of which finds applied without a residue. Blue Color - Boards, giving out after cutting unsuitable waste for further use (these trimming are shown by dark blue).
It makes sense to spend some time and think over the location of the boards - so there will be no waste less, and work will go easier and faster.
By the way, with such a planning, another important nuance is necessarily taken into account. Of course, the first row is more convenient to lay out the whole boards. But the option is not excluded that, in this case, the last row will be too narrow, and it is hardly possible to combine it with qualitatively with the penultimate. You should navigate that the last row still is not already 50, and even better - 70 mm. If it does not go out, you will have to do a narrower starting series. For example, the width of the laminated board is 193 mm. The width of the room is 3.7 m, and it is still necessary to take 10 mm from it on each side to the deformation gap, that is, it turns out 3.68 m. Elementary calculation shows that 19,07 rows should be put in place to fill this area. But 0.07 of 193 mm is a narrow strip of only 14 mm, which will simply be installed in qualitatively impossible. It means that it makes sense to start a number laid out of the width of the boards, say, up to 120 mm. Then the last row will get a width of about 90 mm, that is, it will be great in place. Yes, this is extra waste, but there is nowhere to go ...
- The second main method of laying - with a diagonal location of the board. If you say more correctly, it is not quite a diagonal in a rectangular room, in direct understanding of this term, and, rather, the direction at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls of the walls.
This laying like many. But in order to fulfill it qualitatively, it is still necessary for any experience, and it is better not to choose it for "debut". Although, if desired, and it should work out.
The importance of preliminary preparation of the layout scheme is increasingly growing here - otherwise it is difficult to avoid too much waste. And so many fragments cut off at an angle may well find applications after the middle and the walls will change the direction - will begin to converge. Yes, with such a scheme will have to be tinted longer, but it is worth it.
An example of this scheme shown in the illustration:
Brown - whole boards. Light brown - crushed boards, whose trimming (shown in green) are later used. Fragments marked with red dots - leaving.
Some more important rules
A few more "postulates", mandatory for execution when laying a laminated coating.
- The laminate is able to become a rather "capricious" material during installation and even shortness after laying, if before starting work it is not adapted to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room. That is, packs of acquired coating must be kept in the stored state in the same room for which they were purchased, or in the neighboring, if conditions are exactly the same. At the same time it is unacceptable to put packs vertically. If the boards are sealed into hermetic polyethylene packaging, it is necessary to disrupt its integrity so that the material is adapted by the level of humidity. The term of such adaptation, regardless of the time of the year - at least two days.
- The laminated coating is laid according to the "floating" principle, that is, in no way may be associated with the surface of the base base of the floor. It is not allowed to fasten on the glue or on metal fasteners.
Otherwise, with thermal fluctuations in linear dimensions of the material, deformation, bloating, closing locks, appearance of creaks and other troubles are inevitable.
- For the same reason, the laminated boards should not be hard to rest in obstacles (walls). It is not necessarily a deformation gap of 8 ÷ 10 mm wide, which is subsequently easily hidden by a decorative plinth.
- To cover the necessary "degree of freedom", the plinths are attached exclusively to the wall and under any circumstances - to the floor.
- If the coating area is large, exceeds 8.0 × 6.0 meters, then the compensation gap along the walls for normal expansion may not be enough. Therefore, the deformation breaks of the coating width of 10 mm are also envisaged, which are subsequently close with decorative lining. This should be provided in advance in the laying scheme.
- Another important warning - in a very high-quality party of laminate, sometimes defective boards come across. Or having disposable small defects that interfere with the installation process. Just based on personal experience, the author takes the courage to give a few tips:
- there was a case when one row categorically refused to engage with a previously laid room - dismantled with one or another edge. The reason was covered in one of the boards - her end was not fully perpendicular to the longitudinal edge. After that, all the boards of steel before laying to be checked by the coal. By the way, this defective turned out to be the only one.
Prices for moisture-proof laminate
- At the laminated boards in the corners at the intersection of figure grooves there may be such burstages. They do not play any practical role, but if they are beyond, then it's great to interfere with work.
In order not to crush my head, when preparing a board to laying, these burse can be very easily and quickly cropped with a knife.
- It will be useful to check the cleanliness of the groove of the chalkboard. If there is some kind of, even very small solid inclusion, or the drip of the frozen varnish will be, when assembling problems may arise.
Time checking does not occupy a lot - you can "run" by a sinus with some subtle non-footing tool. For example, the author applied to this backlord for this backlock. All interference or irregularities are perfectly felt with your fingers, and it is easy to remove them.
Laying laminate with their own hands
Laminate laying tools
For laminated coating flooring, some complex tools and devices are required. Usually cost the minimum set, which, in theory, should be from any good owner.
1 - Roulette, for measuring and performing markup.
2 - wedges, providing the necessary gap between the coating and the wall. There is no need to purchase them in the store - such liners are easy to cut into the sickness of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 10 mm. And more often the masters are allowed on such wedges trimming laminate, one way or another remaining after cutting.
3 - Pencil to perform markup.
4 - a suburbant, helping the installation of extremes to the walls of boards and rows. More relevant for laminate with locks like "Lock" - with the locks "Click" to it almost does not have to be resorted. As a last resort - you can do the mount.
5 - Corollary for the markup of boards before revealing.
6 - Wooden bar, through which the shock impact on the board is transmitted, if necessary for the locking of the lock. Instead of bar, a laminate segment is often used - it is sometimes even more convenient, since it is not "injured" the lock part of the board. Again, more relevant for locks "Lock", although there are moments as "click" in some places requires light "shock stimulation" for a full response of the castle.
7 - hammer. The metallic is shown, although, of course, safer for the coating to work with rubber or wooden inquiry.
8 - acute building or stationery knife. It is useful for cutting the substrates, cropping burrs and for other side operations during the work.
9 - Electric jigsaw for cutting boards. It may well be replaced by a manual circular saw. If there is no power tool, you can do and hand-made hacksaw with fine tooth.
How laminate is stacked - step by step
This subsection will present several tables-instructions, from the vision of the manufacturer of the material to the techniques practiced by the masters.
In all cases, we proceed from the fact that the preparatory activities are fully implemented. For laying, models are used with the "Click" type lock.
Table One - instructions from the manufacturer
|Illustration||Brief description of the operation|
|Almost all of the Laminate model offered on sale suggests the beginning of laying from a long-range corner. The wide protruding part of the castle looks out - it is to it that the following boards will be connected, and nothing on the contrary. The board is placed in an angle, the installation of wedges is set by the necessary deformation gap. (Although in practice, this is usually done after assembling the entire first row band).|
|In the end castle of the first board, the second board grooves. The second board at the same time should be under the manufacturer installed an angle for successful engagement.|
|IMPORTANT - None of the boards are completely unacceptable, neither the width of the board ...|
|... neither towards.|
|The edges of the boards after the spike sunset in the groove should be perfectly coincided. In this example, the angle between them is 15 ° to engage the castle parts of the board.|
|After that, the attached board is simply lowered to the floor plane. This should be enough to reliably trigger the lock. Often it is accompanied by a characteristic sound, from where, in fact, the name of this type of connection has come.|
|It turned out that the next board in a row should be shortened. The easiest all the marking for cutting is done directly at the place.|
|The board unfolds 180 degrees and in the longitudinal, and in the transverse plane. The edge of the board, which should remain intact, rests on the steady wedge installed in the wall so that the required gap is immediately taken into account when marking.|
|After that, exactly on the edge of the working surface of the laid board on the placed is carried out perpendicular to the long edges of the cut line. It is clear that it is better to use the coal.|
|Crop is performed. The manual hacksaw is shown - but it is conditional. It is more convenient to use the power tool.|
|After that, the cropped fragment of the laminated boards is turned over, and inserted into the end lock of the previous board of the row ...|
|... Then lowers the bottom - everything is exactly the same as already shown above. With the correct markup, this fragment will ideally rise to its place with the necessary gap from the end to the wall.|
|If the remaining trim has a length, more than minimally permissible, then it can be used as the first board of the second row.|
|It is laid out from the beginning of a number (with the installation of the wedge) close to the already mounted strip, before touching it with her for all its length.|
|To be clearer - here is the section of the profile of boards prepared for mutual engagement in the castle.|
|The entire strip of the second row is assembly - in the same order reported above.|
|Further, the entire lane of the second row must be lifted to the same angle (in this example - 15 °) so that the spikes enter the groove along the entire length of the row. If the width of the room is large, and the series consists more than two boards, one is difficult to cope - it is required to attract the assistant. After the spike is headed into the lock, the entire strip falls on the floor plane with a simultaneous force application somewhat forward and down. If everything is exhibited exactly, the lock must work on all length.|
|The work continues in the same manner, consistently moving from a number to a row, observing the layout scheme, if it was planned.|
|About one of the walls may wash the heating pipes. How to close this area beautifully? To do this, first makes markup. The board rests on the wall (through the wedge), and it has a transverse line corresponding to the position of the pipe axes.|
|Then the same board is connected in the lock with laid nearby, it is moved close to the pipes, and two more lines are scheduled for pipe location centers.|
|At the points of crossing lines, holes are dried, with a diameter, by 20 mm large than the diameter of the pipes. This will require a crown drill.|
|And then a continuous cut over the printed line. From the board, a fragment with two semicircular cuts is separated.|
|Next, the installation of the entire row of laminate, with the beginning of the pipes.|
|The ends of the cut fragment are missing with glue ...|
|... After that, the fragment is installed in place and supports the wedge from the wall.|
|Complete the design of this site. Installing collapsible decorative round framents of pipe penetration.|
|That's how this node should look like.|
|If the door frame turns out on the laying path, then you can, of course, cut the laminate along its contour. But since the plinth does not put here, it will turn out extremely inaccurately. Therefore, the optimal way is to cut down the groove box to insert the laminated board.|
|The groove is cut, but it is not a last to raise the board to start it together with the stacked side. This problem is solved as follows:|
|Initially, the board, which should enter the groove of the door frame, is inserted into the lock, and then shifts close to the wall. The next step is made assembly and styling of the entire row without this board. Between them will be a small gap.|
|With the help of the chisel on the last board of the laid row from the end lock, a vertically looking protrusion is neatly cut.|
|After that, the edge is applied along the edge of the lock.|
|And it will remain shifted with an extreme board back, to docking with a missing glue shelled. After drying the glue, the strength of such a compound should be normal. Similarly, they are also received, for example, when the board of the board at an angle to connect the ranks is interferes closely located on the floor horizontal section of the heating pipe. But still abuse such adhesive joints - it is not worth it.|
|Sooner or later, but the turn of the last row comes. In the overwhelming majority of cases, it requires fitting on the width of the board. The markup is best done, again, at the place.|
|The board simply unfolds inside out around the longitudinal axis and is applied at the place of its installation with a stop on the wedges located at the wall. Exactly along the edge of the working surface of the previous laid row, the cut line is applied.|
|The first board of a number is ready.|
|Similarly, all other boards of the row are trimmed, after which the finished strip is assembled through the end locks.|
|Further, the wedges along the "dead-up" walls are cleaned - this should be enough to start the fingers in the slot and perform the usual connection of the ranks - with raising the edge, the head, and snapping the lock. It happens that the narrow last band "resists", as it is quite problematic to attach an effort to snap. Then she can be slightly helped, without much effort hacking with the help of a ledger bracket or simply passing the effort through the mount, obumed through the laying into the wall.|
On this laying of laminated flooring can be considered complete. It remains to remove the wedges around the perimeter - they have already played their role and no more tedious. Well, and then - go to the installation of plinths, which, repeat, should not be rigidly connected with laminate.
Table Second - some practical label nuances
In fact, some difficulties may arise, for example, associated with the specifics of the room. Let's see how a brigade of masters is coping with this.
|Illustration||Brief description of the operation|
|The process begins with the styling of the substrate - in this case it is a cork cloth in a roll. Nothing complicated - the band is unwinding along the length of the room, cuts into the wall ...|
|Then roll rolls in the opposite direction - and so on. The strips are stacked online.|
|And the links of the joints are then stuck for reliable fixation by the usual scotch. It is desirable that the joints are perpendicular to the direction of the rows of laminate. The likelihood that the lock line will fall on the line of the junction of the support of the substrate is small, but still it is better to exclude it completely.|
|The first row laying begins. As you can see, the master is still not in a hurry to insert wedges from the wall - it can be done a little later.|
|The principle of connecting boards in the castle is the same. The board will start at an angle, aligns ...|
|... and then lowers down to snaping the castle.|
|The last board of the row had to be trimmed not only in length, but also under the acting inner corner.|
|Now the collected row can be moved to the wall ...|
|... and insert wedges. Wedges were made of laminate cropping. The feature of the demonstrated work is that the walls of the walls in the room are not quite even (if not to say more). But customers abandoned their alignment, and, moreover, they wanted to lay the laminate in the system - transverse seams through a row should be accommodated exactly one line. This all imposes some nuances to the installation of wedges of the first row (it is necessary to search for optimal points of their installation so that the row is tightly leaning into the wall. And in the future, it will affect the features of the markup of the starting boards in each row.|
|So, the first row is laid - go to the installation of the second. The billets are cut under it, taking into account the necessary displacement of the transverse seams.|
|Assembling the second row strip.|
|By readiness of the strip, it has already studied the previously studied technology connected from the first, already laid. The row is quite long, so the work is performed with the assistant.|
|If some plot requires an additional effort application for a complete locking of the lock, you can slightly catch up with a hammer. But naturally, not directly in laminate, k through a special gasket. It can be a bar or a fragment of a laminated board with a length of 200 ÷ 300 mm.|
|Usually one or two easy blows is enough for the lock completely closed. In theory, he must close and without any power impact, neither occasionally have to resort to this method.|
|The second row is laid. Now is the following task. The transverse seams on the third row must accurately coincide with the seams of the first row. To do this, with the help of the kitchen and simple pencil, the seam line is projected onto the edge of the staple board - there is a small mark, which is then, after laying, it will be easy to erase.|
|The boards of laminate temporarily connects to the lock with laid nearby, so that its edge has come evenly on the pencil risk made.|
|After that, measurements are made from the edge of the board to the wall. Moreover, the measurement is made from each of the corners. Even on the illustration, it is clearly noticeable as the curve line of the wall. And the difference in the plot of one board in some places reached 7 ÷ 8 mm! After measurements, the dimensions are transferred to the cutting board, with a deduction of a 10 mm deformation gap.|
|After that, you can cut down and assembling the entire strip ...|
|... and then its connection with a previously laid nearby.|
|On the fourth row, the operation is repeated, but the guidance is already served by the transverse seam of the second row.|
|And so on - just because of the curvature of the walls, each starting board of a number has to be customized individually.|
|Another small nuance - on the way, was like such a protrusion. How to remove the dimensions under cut, so as not to be mistaken, taking into account the unpredictable curvature of the wall?|
|The easiest way is to "live to simulate" a fragment, which should remain on the board to fill this protrusion. To do this, at first, one board is dressed in a lock with laid nearby and move to the wall - as shown in the illustration.|
|Then it is connected to her in the lock another board, which is also moving in the wall. In the corner, the opening was formed, on the size of which should be focused when transferring markup for the cutting board. Naturally, taking into account the deformation gap.|
|And here, by the way, it also turned out not a rectangle ...|
|... and something closer to the trapezoid.|
|As already mentioned, it is often difficult when installing creates the latest row - simply because of its small width and complexity of the application effort for a full response of the castle.|
|The problem can be solved by an effort through the mount (nail), supervised it into the wall through the gasket (from that de trimming of the laminate). Several such "suspenders" along the length of the row - and everything should be in place.|
Table Third - Is it possible to install one, without assistant?
The table will show the method like a laminate with the KLICK lock you can put alone if there is no helper.
|Illustration||Brief description of the operation|
|Laying of the first row - no features.|
|The collected row is moved to the wall, the wedges set by the deformation gap.|
|Prepared cutting blanks and solid panels for assembling the second row.|
|The assistant has no masters, so it will carry out the installation itself, sequentially on one board. First, the starting board of the second row is mounted in the well-known way. We started in the castle at an angle ...|
|... lowered to the floor - ready.|
|Go to the installation of another board. Initially, a connection is made in the end lock. At the same time, the board shifts as close to the previously laid row.|
|But since the length of the borrow panel is not inserted yet, it will turn out such a protrusion on the line of the transverse seam ...|
|... And here is such a slot - along the longitudinal seam.|
|Next, the board is lifted to the angle desired for the combination of the lock parts.|
|On the far right end of the board, it should be used to drive as much as possible so that the gaps almost remained.|
|Then, holding a tightly pressed right edge, the base of the palm of the left hand is applied a short shock in the area of the protrusion on the end seam between the panels. Usually one energetic impact is enough for the panel slightly slipped in the end connection forward, and the lock came into engagement throughout the line of the mounted board.|
|Making sure that the slot on all lines of the boards "closed" can be lowered the panel to the floor for the final response of the lock.|
|Next Board: First, the end connection ...|
|... Then - the installation of the locking part with the raising board, the maximum fast pressed right edge ...|
|... a short leaf left palm ...|
|- And the castle worked.|
|All the same, but from another angle. An end connection with a small ledge is performed.|
|The board is raised, the right edge is pressed as much as possible.|
|Left palm is applied.|
|The board is lowered to the floor plane for the final snatching of the lock connection. And so on - until all the coating is laid.|
It seems - everything is simple. But, I must say, the author of these lines is very skeptical of such technology. No, she, of course, works. But it still looks somewhat "barbaric", and, in relation to both the material and the master. Imagine the premises of a large area - while you put all the laminate - you will bring all my left hand. Yes, and for castle compounds, such a shock impact is still not particularly useful.
In short when the situation is really hopeless - you can and resort to this method. But still easier, as it seems, enlist the help of a good friend.
Fourth table - laminate mounting features with latch lock
To work alone, it is best to use laminate with modern proprietary locks, for example, with the following system "1 Clic 2 GO"
|Illustration||Brief description of the operation|
|Once again, demonstrate the principal scheme of the device of this castle connection. On the long side of the laminate - the usual scheme of the type "click", requiring the head of the panel at an angle. But on the end - there are indigenous differences. A spring-loaded plank latch hides in the sinuse. At the expense of the existing bevel, it works on the same principle as the latch in the usual door lock. That is, when closed, first hides in its nest, and then, having received "freedom", pops out out, comes into the grooves of the panel and fixes the connection of this end corner.|
|The entire process of installing laminated boards is reduced to several simple actions. When installing the first row, the start board is laid initially, as usual.|
|Then the next board is supplied to her end. They are aligned along the seam line, and on the external longitudinal lines of the panels. After that, it remains to be applied to the edge of the second board.|
|In the lock connection, all curly protrusions and grooves will coincide, and the shouting latch will fix the node in the assembled position. The connection is manufactured.|
|When laying the second and all subsequent rows, the same sequence of actions is observed. The laying is performed sequentially on one board, that is, the work is for one wizard. At first, the start-up board of the second row was connected to the already considered technology "Click".|
|Then, along the long side, the next panel will start and shifted to the starting, so that the lines of their ends come together.|
|After combining panels on the end, it remains to attach a progressive force down. At the same time, locks on the long side of the laminated board will work, and the latch in the end lock, what it usually signals a characteristic click. It turns out and quickly, and very convenient. Otherwise, during installation, the general rules adhere to the above mentioned above.|
* * * * * * *
The article discussed cases of conventional laying of laminate, with rows parallel and perpendicular to the walls of the room. Diagonal laying questions were considered only casual, as this is a much more difficult way, and requires an experienced experience. It is better for him to devote a separate publication of the portal. In the meantime, so that there is no shortness of obviousness, and at least an approximate picture of such a mounting method appeared, we suggest watching a video on this topic.
Video: Laying of laminate diagonally
Laminate is becoming increasingly popular. It is inexpensive, beautiful, easily and quickly stacked. All this is so. How to put the laminate itself, make it right and beautiful, and we will discuss. If there are questions - ask.
How to put a laminate itself: what you need to know
Laminit is good in that it is stacked quickly, the material is ready for laying, the process itself does not require expensive materials or tools. This makes it possible to put the floor cover yourself. But that the result pleased, you need to know how to put the laminate. There are unlohabited moments that, nevertheless, strongly affect the final result.
What is required in addition to flooring
The first thing to remember is to lay the laminate only on a dry and even base. Smooth is a drop of no more than 2 mm by 2 meters. And the differences should not be sharp. Only in this case the locks will not disperse. That is, before putting the laminate, check how smooth you have. If necessary, align, bringing to a satisfactory condition.
Second. Substrate is put under the laminate. Species of the substrate for laminate about a dozen, and it is necessary for two purposes:
- to compensate for existing irregularities;
- To reduce the "height" of the floor.
Can I install without a substrate? It is possible if the basis is close to the ideal. But it will be very uncomfortable to live, as each step is given to echo, even in slippers. This is not happy about the neighbors from below. Can I put a substrate in two layers? Better not. Usually do it "for heat", but it does not become warmer, and the locks are loaded more than the usual, since because of the larger layer (becomes softer), the floor is more silent. Some locks are withstanding, some are not. Do not risk. It is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Under the substrate - immediately to the concrete floor - it is even recommended to lay a plastic film. This is waterproofing. This is the recommendations of manufacturers, as well as advice on the basis of experience. This film will be protected in case of leakage. She will not give a laminate to absorb moisture out of the ground, which is important for the inhabitants of the first floors and private houses.
Before laying the laminate, bring the packaging to the room, unpack and inspect. Sometimes it is not seen in the packages that the material is a wet and swelling. This occurs during transportation. If this is observed, it is better to replace it right ...
Unpacked laminate must lie in the room for several days. Stop it with smooth stacks on an even base. For a few days, he will adopt "operating condition". That is, it warms up to room temperature and will acquire the humidity of the room.
Be sure to remember that when laying a laminate, it is not closed close to the wall, but leave the gap of about 8-10 mm. This clearance is needed to compensate for thermal expansion. The clearance should be otherwise the laminate will swell. In order for the clearance to be easier to withstand, at the time of laying the laminate, the gaskets of the desired thickness are installed between the planks and the wall. It may be trimming the same laminate. For home, it goes just 7-8 mm thick. Please note that around the pipes, columns or protrusions should also be a gap of 7-10 mm.
After the last row was laid, all the gaskets are cleaned. Laminate with a change in humidity decreases / increases in size and this gap gives it a place for these changes. The gap will then close the plinth, but it must be fixed to the wall.
Laminate laying schemes
There are several traditional laminate laying schemes. All of them can be divided into two groups - straight and diagonal. If you have not yet dealt with a similar coating, and just pretend how to put a laminate, it is better to choose one of the direct methods. Less trigger, less waste.
There is another kind - a displacement with a certain step. Selects a certain displacement size. It is arbitrary, but exactly less than 1/3 of length. The shortest plate cannot be shorter than 30 cm. Otherwise, the likelihood of what it will pop up or will have to glue it to the nearby. This circuit is calculated, as it depends on the size of the laminate board.
What kind of laminate laying the laminate you choose, remember that short pieces are less than 20-30 cm - it is better not to put. Usually they "pop up." Install them in place, without disassembled all the coating, it is difficult, and you can also damage the locks. In general, it is better not to save on trifles.
In more expensive collections - with complex designs of locks - a smaller length of a short piece is allowed. But this is indicated in the documents. And laying the laminate of a smaller length is definitely not worth it.
Laminate laying order
Before putting the laminate, we remove all of the room. The floor should be absolutely dry and clean. Laminate can not put on a wet screed. Even moisture-resistant. Before starting work, everyone is carefully cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
The following tools and materials are needed for work:
- Hacksaw on a tree or an ush with a suitable disk.
- Hammer, Z-shaped plate or laminate trim. With the plate work more convenient.
- Corolon, ruler, roulette, pencil, knife.
You can cut the laminate with a hacksaw, grinder, jigsaw, but the most even cut is obtained by a permeaker saw. There is still a special machine for cutting laminate, but he and the acting is not all. And any of the listed tools is suitable. If smoothly cut off at all problematic, take the most inexpensive stub. But such a width so that you can put the board. Stuslo can be made with your own hands from three boards, shot down in the form of the letter P.
Rules and sequence of actions
The order of laying laminate itself depends on the type of lock and the selected method, but in general, the work is step by step.
- On a dry level, the film is spread, it is cut a little on the walls, they are fixed with the help of painting scotch. After laying it is cut and wrapped in the gap. As already spoke, it is optional.
- The substrate is exactly needed. It is dismissed along the wall with which it is necessary to start laying. If the substrate consists of several pieces, the joint is sicked with scotch. It's not worth stuffing a lot, as it is impossible to walk on it.
- We start laying the laminate. Short side deployed to the window. So the jokes are less visible. Do not forget about the gap between the edge of the board and the wall. We put the gasket there.
- We put the first board, resting it in the lining (from the end and on the long side). Schip looks into the wall, the groove is turned into the room.
- The method of connecting the next board depends on the shape of the castle. These are two types - Lock (Lok) and Click. The first-type locks are ever less often, but we will tell about them.
- So lay out the first row. The last board is usually clipped. Do not forget that here also to the wall should be a gap of 3 mm. To fit tightly this piece, I will definitely need a Z-plank.
- The second row starts with the board of another length. Its length depends on the selected scheme, but the procedure is similar. It is only necessary to poison also along the long side. The first insert the end castle, putting it so that the castle was not far from the edge. When we connect the long side, the side lock "goes as on the rails."
- Then everything is recruited by analogy.
- The last row usually requires trimming. Deploy the bar spike from the wall, rest it in the gaskets, mark where you need to cut. Since the geometry of the premises, we are rarely perfect, it is better to try on the spot, and put mark and at the beginning, and at the end.
Here, in fact, all. You know how to put the laminate and make it right.
Board for faster and convenient styling
Laying the laminate is more convenient and faster when you start several rows at once. When you displaced on 1/3, you can put three rows (or more) at once. When displaced on 1/2, lay two boards in length, and start two more rows - from 1/2 and with a whole. And further stack - the ladder, and the number of steps at least three, and can be more. Depends on the size of the room.
Why is that? Such a sequence of laying laminate leads to the fact that the locks are snapped easier. Minus - the number of waste is growing, albeit slightly.
Laying almost without waste
So that less material goes into waste as possible, choose the size of the laminate and the scheme of its stacking should be taken into account of the geometry of the room. See, pieces will not be completely if the length of the room:
In general, the idea is understandable. Also check and width. The latter board should not be 5 cm (take into account the gaps).
How to issue sophisticated places
How to put laminate, theoretically, understandable. If the laminate is already available, you can practice on a small area - then it becomes clearer. But in the rooms there are always some problem areas that will not immediately understand how to do. In any case, there are two such sites - pipes and door frame. How to lay a laminate in these places to not be frozen? In principle, it is easy. Need a ruler, a drill with crowns, a tree hacksaw and lining, which will close the clearance in the pipes.
Adjacent to the door frame and the raincokes
To laminate near the door frame lay beautifully and without gaps, put it preferably with the already installed box. If you still do not put the doors, there is time to do while the laminate is "searched." When installing the box, it is necessary to make a little shorter - between it and the floor should break the saw blade. If the box is already standing, you can cut.
When laying, the laminate fit under the racks, so there will be no gap. But how to make a laminate shake with another coating is a whole separate topic. And if the doors go into the corridor with a tile - there are additional methods for docking laminate and tiles. The easiest and is obvious - the threshings. They are different, so already here are mass options. If the thresholds do not like at all, there is a cork compensator. He is almost invisible.
How beautiful to circumvent pipes
The second sophisticated place for a beautiful design is the outlet of the floor of pipes. Without heating, we cannot live and eat pipes in almost any room. Recall once again: around the pipe should be a clearance of at least 5-7 mm. Handing the board to the wall, at the desired distance, mark the middle of the pipe with a pencil. We measure the diameter of the pipe, add to this value 2 cm (in extreme cases 1.5 cm), we obtain the diameter of the hole that must be drilled in the laminate. It is difficult to find a drill with such a diameter, but the nozzle of the type "crown" can be.
After you have done a hole (or two, if necessary), we spend directly through the center of the holes and cut off the part of the board. We install laminatin, rear pipes insert a sliced piece. If everything is done as it should be perfectly. The joints with glue (versatile, on wood) and put everything finally. And the clearance is closed with overlays. They are in the color of the tree, there are white, black, shiny. There are plastic or similar to metal. In general, options are possible.
If the pipes come to the long part of the laminate board, the technology slightly changes, but the essence remains the same. Just need to cut down the site in the form of a trapezoid.
Laminate is a relatively new, but has already gained popularity in a large number of buyers version of the floor covering. It differs not only by high performance characteristics, but also significant simplicity in the installation. Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate with their own hands will allow you to mount the coating, even if you do not have skills in the field of repair and finishing works.
The structure of laminated panels
Design Laminate It is several layers that are connected in the panel. On each side of such a panel there are special locking devices that allow you to quickly and easily connect them to each other.
Because of this constructive feature, the coating is very sensitive to the base, that is, the slightest irregularities of the floor on which it is stacked laminate can lead to loosening and premature deposits of locks. And this, in turn, leads to the formation of slots, cluster dust and dirt in them, and to other indifference consequences.
The laminate includes the following layers:
- The upper layer consists of antistatic heavy-duty material, it assumes the main mechanical load;
- a acrylic resin layer - enriched with special mineral particles to give greater strength;
- impregnated with special paper - a decorative layer that provides aesthetic appearance of the coating;
- adhesive layer - bonds upper layers with base;
- The base of plastic is the fastest layer equipped with waterproofing. It also contains the original Laminate Castle System.
Laying of laminate: floor alignment scheme
The permissible irregularity of the floor when laying the laminate should not exceed 2 mm for every 2 m² of surface area. Suppose and a bias within 4 mm per 2 m², but on such a floor it is not recommended to install furniture and other interior items. When laying a laminate on the uneven floor, there will inevitably emerge, because of which the doors of cabinets may not be closed.
When preparing a floor to laying a laminate, the alignment variant depends on the material from which the base is manufactured. General alignment tips are reduced to the following points:
- Old concrete coating is subject to overhaul. Cracks are expanding and filled with cement mortar, large grooves must be filled with a self-leveling mixture. At the end of the floor polished or poured with a screed;
- In the wooden floor, the flooded boards are replaced or plywood alignment is carried out;
- Cement screed is primed by special compositions;
- The plywood or boarding coating is polished using special equipment to eliminate small irregularities.
Useful advice! All types of floors before laying a laminate need to be thoroughly washed and spent.
Choosing the optimal version of the floor alignment, you need to focus on such criteria as the amount of effort and time spent, as well as financial expenses.
Installation of the substrate and insulating layer
When laying a laminate, it is extremely undesirable that the floor covering in contact with the surface that highlights moisture. Therefore, an additional installation of special layers is needed, which will absorb water and prevent steam condensation. A special diffusion membrane or a layer of polyethylene with a thickness of 20 mm is well suited as such layers. Material sheets need to be treated with 20 cm peaks, and among themselves it is best to connect them with a tape.
Installation of the waterproofing layer is required if you mount the laminate on the concrete base. Under this definition, the following basic coating options fall:
- directly concrete floor, which is characterized by the presence of rubble or gravel in solution;
- Cement-sand screed;
- Factory plates and monolithic overlaps.
At the same time, the service life of concrete sex does not have a fundamental importance, as it can be separated by moisture as a new and old coating. Installation of the waterproofing layer will save the laminate-sensitive laminate from deformation, so this moment must be taken into account when calculating the laying scheme of laminate.
In almost all instructions on laying laminate, it is pronounced that the substrate must perform the following functions:
- provision of floor static;
- Aligning small base defects;
- moisture protection;
- Protection of the lower side of the laminate from abrasive abrasion.
An ordinary linoleum can act as such a layer.
Step-by-step instructions: how to put laminate for linoleum with your own hands
Video instructions for laying laminate on linoleum show that for high-quality installation of the coating, you need to accurately adhere to the installed technology. It is necessary to start the flooring panels in the direction from the window, perpendicular to him. In order to be a clearance between the laminate and the wall, it is necessary to establish special spacer wedges.
Useful advice! The deformation gap should be within 10 mm. It serves that the coating can expand and narrow with the temperature drops or humidity level without surface deformation.
After the first row of coating is mounted, you must trim the short panel. If the cropped part is longer than 50 cm, it can be laid in the second row, and thereby minimize the amount of waste. The boards of the second row are applied to the adjacent panels at an angle of 45 degrees. The last panel is mounted using a special clamp, which allows it to maintain a fixed state.
In order to protect the deformation gap when laying a laminate, after installing all panels on linoleum, plinths are installed. If you are planning to hide the wires and other communications for them, it is recommended to use plinth models with special channels.
The substrate thickness depends on the thickness of the laminate panels. This means that for panels with a thickness of 9 mm, the substrate should not be thicker than 3 mm. In the instructions that are attached to each specific model of the floor covering, there are recommendations for the choice of the substrate to which you want to navigate. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the features of laying laminate with a floating method, that is, when the panels are connected only among themselves, and not attach to the base or walls.
Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate with their own hands: the choice of suitable layouts and the implementation of calculations
There are three main directions for laminate layouts:
- Longitudinal - coating is mounted parallel to the stream of sunlight from the window. The easiest and most popular layout option.
- Transverse - allows you to visually increase the area of the room, the panels are located across the room (parallel to the wall with the window opening).
- Diagonal is the most difficult direction in terms of installation, which allows even more than a transverse increase in the room.
If the laminate is laid on the boarding floor, the panels need to be located perpendicular to the flooring. And in order to minimize the consumption of the material, it is recommended before installing the installation planning the room with its size. All openings and niches are applied to it, the deformation protrusion is outlined, and then it is considered how many panels are necessary for laying the coating. It should be taken into account both the amount of integer panels and the possible use of cropping.
The photo of the methods of laying the laminate will help you understand what option is better suitable for your room. Also for holding calculations, you can use special construction calculators that can be easily found on the Internet.
What do you need to lay laminate as quickly and efficiently? You will need the following set of tools:
- Roulette, Construction Corner and Level - To ensure equated installation;
- Building knife, electric lobby or hacksaw - for cutting panels, plinths and bars;
- Pencil - put labels on the walls and panels;
- Hammer - to secure panels.
You can buy a set for laying laminate in any construction store, and the use of the above tools does not require special skills.
Possible ways of connecting panels
Laminate elements can be connected between themselves in several different ways:
- Lock-locks are special latches, when using which comb each next coating panel is entered into the groove of the previous one. This is done strictly vertically or horizontally, and to increase the reliability of the connection location, it is recommended to catch up with a hammer or lubricate with glue;
- Double Click locks - the crest of the next panel is not easy to entered in the groove, but also snaps through the application of a small effort. This embodiment is more reliable and does not require additional strengthening;
- The adhesive method - recently used extremely rarely. When using this method, the end and the equity side of each of the panels is pre-treated with glue.
When laying a laminate with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction has minor differences depending on how you build - by rows, connecting the ready-made row, or by separate panels. The second option is easier to carry out alone, and the first requires a smaller amount of time.
Step-by-step video instruction laying laminate with their own hands: Various ways of mounting
After you implemented floor alignment, you purchased all the necessary tools and decided on the appropriate panel connection system, you can start directly to laying the floor covering.
Any type of installation in which the sequential connection of one boards is occurring on the other, is called laminate laying with deck mode. The deck laying is suitable for all types of laminate, and also differs from the figure savings of the material and the simplicity of work. For laying decks, it is not necessary to carry out complex calculations and often crop panels.
If you make the laying of the piece, then the sequence of actions will be as follows:
- The first panel is stacked by the lock on itself, the crest to the wall. Between the wall and panels are installed wedges for the formation of the gap;
- The second panel joins the second and so on;
- Between the combined panels should not be gaps or drops in height. The longitudinal edge must also be at the same level;
- In order to make a connection on the share edge, the panel must first insert at an angle, and then bring to click until it clicks;
- Face locks can be combined horizontally or vertical;
- The trimming of the last panel in the first row is stacked at the beginning of the second.
Useful advice! Video laying of laminate will help you fulfill all the actions as quickly and efficiently as possible, and also inschers from common errors. You can find such video instructions on many specialized sites.
When laying a laminate for rows, you need to perform the following actions:
- The first row is collected from the panels with a precised ridge. The row is stacked by the castle on itself. The first row is optional to locate near the wall;
- The first row is joined by the second, both rows are attached to the wall, wedges are installed for the formation of a deformation gap;
- According to the same technology, the following rows are joined;
- The laminate is started under the door frame so that the gap is not formed between the floor and shoals. For this purpose, the box rack is written from below to the thickness of the laminate.
If the pipeline passes through the floor, then in the place of its passing through the laminate, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 2 cm with a large diameter of the pipe. This is done so that the floor can float freely with temperature or humidity drops.
Advantages of the floating method of laying
When choosing any coating circuit, you can fix the laminate to the floor using a special construction glue, and you can choose laminate laying by a floating method. Such a method means that the material panels are bonded between themselves, but they are not attached to the base.
The nuance here is that for every 10-12 ending meters, the coating should be provided for temperature seams that will not allow the laminate to deform when the temperature differences in the room. In addition, there must also be a special gaps between the wall and laminate, which can be hidden under plinths.
A floating method will give you the following advantages:
- If an error is allowed when assembly, then the finished coating can be disassembled and re-assess. Most manufacturers claim to do it up to three times;
- Damaged or deformed panels during operation can be easily replaced with new ones;
- Laying with deck mode is easier than glue. In the photo laying laminate, there is no difference with other installation options;
- Operation of gender is possible immediately after flooring and installation of plinths, no need to wait until the glue dry.
In addition, the installation of a floating method is possible directly on the prepared screed with the preliminary use of the thermal insulation substrate.
Sounds of laying laminate diagonally
The main feature of laying the coating diagonally is that the panels are located at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls. On the video laying of laminate diagonally, it is clear that the installation should be started from the center of the room, and then advance at any destination for you. Near the walls, as in the styling in other ways, it is necessary to leave a deformation gap of about 15 mm.
Also on video laying laminate diagonally can be seen that before starting the installation between the opposite corners of the room stretches the thread. This is done in order to lay the first row of undisputed panels. To cut the subsequent, you can use an electroll qq or the metal knife.
Useful advice! Do not throw away parts of the panels that you were cut on the left side of the row, they will be useful when laying the right side.
When diagonal laying it is very important to take into account the deformation gap when cutting the corners, which will then fit in the wall.
Laying of laminate with fist
Laminate with a chamfer differs from the usual in the fact that the edges of the top are bevelled with two or from four sides. This allows laminate to be similar to a flooring made of natural wood, and also protects the edges of the panels from bundle and rock during operation.
On the video laying of laminate with the fault, it is noticeable that the installation of this type of floor covering is no different from the installation of ordinary laminate. Under the panel with the chamfer, it is also necessary to mount the substrate layer, the base is desirable to align as much as possible, and the panel laying itself can be carried out in parallel, perpendicular or diagonally.
How to lay laminate without thresholds
Installation of coverage without thresholds is one of the most popular laminate laying methods. Before you choose this particular option, consider the number of nuances that occur:
- When laying a laminate without thresholds throughout the apartment, you need to make compensation seams if the total area exceeds 50 m². Otherwise, the coating can appear, most often this happens in the doorways;
- It is strongly recommended to use a non-free method if the area of the room exceeds 120 m²;
- Before starting the laying, it is necessary to measure the height of the door. The gap between the door web and laminate should be approximately 1 cm;
- In a room in which the laying is made, there must be a low level of humidity, otherwise the coating will swear and deform, and the base of the floor should be as smaller as possible;
- As in the case of the usual laying of laminate, the installation of an insulating substrate is required. It can be foamed polyethylene, cork sheets or a relief cardboard laid in several layers. The recommended substrate thickness is 2-4 mm.
In many of the video independent laying of the laminate, it is shown that when installing the coating without thresholds, as at other methods, it is possible to fasten the panel in different ways. Choose a connection with glue stands if the laying is made indoors with high humidity and high contamination. Then the jokes will be sealed, dust and water will not fall between them. The locking method is good because it is carried out faster, and the panels adjacent to each other denser.
Useful advice! Installation on glue eliminates the possibility of parsing the laminate, so try to avoid errors when laying.
The most difficult moment in laying without thresholds is sites in doorways. First, the boards in the adjacent rooms should be laid in one direction, so you visually expand the space. Secondly, in the door frame, you should make a downturn where it will be coated under its racks. Video of self-laying laminate without thresholds helps you do everything correctly and prevent common errors.
Choosing a suitable way to lay such a flooring, like a laminate, it is worth considering all the nuances of the room, the features of the selected panels, as well as take into account their skills and opportunities in terms of construction. When taking into account all these moments you can make the perfect floor covering with your own hands.
Do you need to pre-get acquainted with theoretical information on how to lay a laminate yourself? The answer is unequivocal. Agree, by ignorance, we often admit serious errors that are not visible at first glance. For example, they began to lay the laminate immediately after the purchase, and a week later, the new floor swelled. And you have to buy another batch and mount again. So what should be considered?
- What do you need to work?
- Stages of laying laminate
- Useful articles
Laminate is a universal floor covering, which is in high demand. Why? It possesses such characteristics as:
- increased wear resistance;
- reliability and strength;
- versatility of use;
- Absolute environmental friendliness and no harm to health;
- Aesthetic appearance.
Ask yourself a question: how much is the laying of laminate when ordering in a construction company? The price is about 300 - 400 rubles per square meter depending on the method of installation and conditions. You just imagine: an area of 20 square meters will leave 8,000 rubles! And this is only the cost of work, not counting the material itself. Agree, such a simple work is fully able to do it yourself: specialized tools are not required for this, and useful tips you will learn from our article.
1. What do you need to work?
2. Stages of laying laminate
What you need to know before starting work
- Air humidity in the room in which you plan to lay the laminate should be from 40 to 70% at a temperature of from 15 to 30 ° C. For laying, for example, the laminate is not suitable in the bathroom. For kitchen and hallway, choose a special type of material resistant to moisture.
- Hold purchased laminate in the room at least 48 hours. This is a prerequisite for its adaptation, otherwise the material after laying can change its dimensions, and the floor will swell.
- Inspect the surface of the floor for irregularities with a construction level: Differs should not be more than 2 mm per 1 sq.m.
- The floor must necessarily be solid - it is not recommended to lay laminate on carpet or wooden floor with cream and rotten boards.
- It is strictly forbidden to install laminate on the warm floor. It is allowed to use aqueous warm floor.
- Under the laminate necessarily a substrate that is necessary for improving heat and noise insulation is necessary.
Choose and prepare the base for laminate
Concrete screed Falls 30 days before laying a laminate - wait for her full of frozen and only then proceed to work. If the laminate has to be laid on the existing screed, carefully inspect it and make sure of integrity. Check the presence of cracks and protruding parts - if there are, pour these places with a special self-leveling mixture. If the concrete floor is damaged quite strongly, you will have to fill a new screed.
Tip! A double layer of polyethylene is necessarily placed on the floor of the concrete. It acts as waterproofing - protects against moisture. Enclosed it perpendicular to the direction in which the laminate is planned. Fix the polyethylene to therapy with the help of a tape, and on the perimeter of the walls, leave 3 - 5 cm.
Wooden floor Check before laminate laminate. Make sure that it does not creak and the boards did not rot - for this, catch it with a hammer. If the floor differences are small, you can fix them with a branch - remove all protruding parts, for example, nails. If the irregularities are significant, then you need to align the floor with plywood.
Tip! Be sure to take into account the thickness of the laminate, plywood and the original base, to which everything stacked, otherwise after installing the material, the door to the room simply will not appear.
Tile or linoleum Stay, to remove them optionally. It is enough to put on top only the substrate - the material specifically designed for laying under the laminate, and there is no need for plastic in polyethylene. A cork canvas, polystyolster, polyethylene foam, can act as material for the substrate.
Remove the entire garbage from the floor surface. Next, put the substrate canvas that will provide heat and sound insulation - it is necessary in any case if you mount the laminate. It is necessary to place the sheets, and not a mustache so that irregularities are not formed.
How to connect laminate
First option - Using glue Pretty simple. Adhesive composition is applied to the edge of the laminate boards, and they are tightly joined each other. This type of installation is preferable in rooms with high load. However, it is rarely used due to the high labor complexity of the process, there is no possibility to disassemble the coverage in the future and a small service life due to the decay of the adhesive composition.
Second option - CLICK Castle The most popular. The attachment of the boards is carried out in a spike groove at an angle of 30 °. After the board is lowered, it turns out to be reliably fixed, and the joke is practically not visible.
Third option - Lock Castle Requires experience, otherwise the laminate can be damaged, besides, such a connection is very sensitive to irregularities on the surface.
Laminate mounting options
one. Classic laying - The boards are placed perpendicular to the wall with windows so that the light falls along the canvas. To start a new row, you can use the cutting board, but only if it is longer than 30 cm. When choosing this option, you will get very little waste - less than 5%.
2. Chess laying - A new row shifts relative to the previous half of one board. You will get the maximum coating strength, however, the material costs will increase by 13 - 15% compared with the first way.
3. Diagonal laying - The most beautiful view is made not perpendicular, but at an angle of 45 ° to the wall with windows. However, the amount of waste is very large and is more than 15%, and if the room is narrow, then more.
Tip! With any scheme, a new row should be started with a displacement relative to the previous minimum by 20 cm.
Step 1. Before mounting the first row, place between the first board, which you are going to lay, and the wall along its entire length of wooden wedges. They will create the necessary gap for the subsequent expansion of the laminate, which can occur due to changes in humidity in the room. Similar gaps Make around all protruding parts, such as heating pipes. It is for this that you will need pipes for pipes - it will be more convenient to mount the laminate. It is necessary that the laid material does not swear if the panels change the size, for example, due to the change of seasons.
Tip! Start the installation of laminate from the angle in which the batteries are located. So you will be easier to apply the whole room.
Step 2. In the angle of the room, put the first boards of the laminate, turn to yourself. To her end, at an angle of 30 - 40 °, bring the end of the second panel and insert it into the groove. Press the inserted panel to the floor: you will hear a click that talks about fixing the connection. Thus, collect the whole first row. If the last panel does not fit, measure the desired distance from the new board and cut it with an electroll bitch or hacksaw.
If you have chosen a diagonal laying option, you will have to cut the laminate boards at the desired corners. It is easier to do this using the coal and marking marker - the edges will be smooth, and the angles are accurate.
Step 3. The second row start with offset from the wall relative to the first at least 20 cm. In the above scheme, put the entire second row.
Step 4. Now connect both rows. To do this, lift the second row to 30 - 40 ° and insert the first row in the grooves. Lower, snapping the castle.
Step 5. Place the entire area of the room, placing the panels and connecting the ranks.
It often happens that the last row in the width does not fit to the wall. Measure the distance between the last laid nearby and the wall and do the cut panels. Be sure to measure the distance at the very beginning and end: the walls in the rooms are often uneven, therefore, the gap can form between the laminate panel and the wall.
Step 6. Start installing plinths. Cheap models are fastened with self-drawers or dowels, and expensive fixed with special corners for plinths that are screwed to the wall and the plinth is put on them. At the end of the work, wipe the laminate laminate with a clean damp cloth.
Everything is ready! With low money costs and the right installation, you became the owner of a durable and beautiful floor.
3. Useful articles
How to update the wooden floor in the apartment
How to choose a jigsaw?
How and what to choose a manual hacksaw?
Installation of laminate refers to those few types of repair and construction operations that the minimally prepared homemade master can safely fulfill themselves. This is a relatively clean job that does not require an expensive tool. In addition, everyone really likes to observe how quickly the room is transformed as laminate styled.
However, that the flooring serve for a long time and without problems - you need to comply with a number of technological rules. Let's look at this event step by step.
In what conditions can you start work
You can use the floating floor from laminated panels in any destination premises, with 2 key conditions:
- Relative air humidity must be from 40 to 70%
- The air temperature must be in the range of 18 to 24 ° C
In the bathrooms, parilots, unheated rooms and other similar places - laminate is not recommended.
Usually, the laminate is mounted before installing interroom doors, upon completion of all painting works and with a working heating system, when there is no risk of increasing the temperature and humidity regime. It is also important that plaster, screed and other massive layers capable of holding water for a long time were completely dry.
Preparation of durable and smooth base
The base can be a solid and stable surface, such as cement-sand screed, concrete slab, tile, wooden floors on lags. It is impossible to lay laminate on carpet, linoleum, gypsum bases, unprotected insulation.
The geometric characteristics of the carrier surface directly affect the quality of the floor obtained. Laminate does not like sharp drops based on, since because of this, it can "squash" and creak, up to local destruction of locks. The maximum allowable deviation from the plane can be 2 millimeters on a 2-meter plot. To determine such drops, it is necessary to use an aluminum rule 2 meters long and a roulette or measuring wedge.
When a total deviation from horizontal or local irregularities is more than 2 mm in size, it is recommended to use self-leveling and fast-hard compounds that are capable of working with minimal layers after applying, as they say "on the SDIR". For such work, you will need a building mixer, as well as a needle roller to remove air from fresh levels.
Wooden floors from a massive board will sufficiently open well. And when rehanging the wooden floor in old houses - a more practical solution to problem solving is the use of the trim of the old flooring with wooden construction plates with a thickness of 4 mm (FC Plywood Plywood, DVP, OSB).
Laminate is very sensitive to the humidity of the carrier, as well as it is afraid of too low and too high its temperature - in these cases there is a possibility of deformation of the floor covering. Manufacturers of laminated panels allow maximum indicators of the basic moisture content:
- Concrete slab overlap - 4%
- Cement-sand ties - 5%
- Wood flooring - 12%
To reveal accurate numbers, it is best to use a special measuring device (hygrometer). However, there are several reliable uninstructing methods for checking floor humidity. In Russia, the "Loskuta method" (drying) began, when a piece of polyethylene was put on the floor with a size of 1x1 meters and around the perimeter is glued to the basis of adhesive mounting tape (scotch). The flap leaves for a day, after which they remove and inspect. If there was no condensed moisture on the film - it means that the laminate is given green light.
The temperature of the floor is determined by the contactless thermometer. It should be in the range from 12 to 15 ° C - it is believed that these numbers correspond to air temperature around 18 ° C. If such indicators did not succeed, then in the cold season (no later than the 3rd day before the installation) of the laminate should begin to make the room.
Excessive overheating is another problem.
For use in the "Warm floor" system, only those models of the laminate, which are approved for this by the manufacturer are allowed.
If the laminated panels are designed for a warm floor (mainly recommended to apply them with water systems and electrical cables, climbed into the screed), then you should always follow the temperature requirements specified by the manufacturer. Experts of the limit value indicate the temperature of only +28 ° C, on which the TP regulators should be maximized.
The freshly tired screed with a warm floor inside should be brought to the "functional heating" condition (with a smoothly changing temperature) so that it is guaranteed to ripe for styling.
Acclimatization of material
Closed boxes (packaging) with laminate need to be stored in a horizontal position of 48 hours indoors where installation will be made. Then the packaging film is removed, and the material must be in the same place on acclimatization for another 72 hours. The room at the same time needs to be well ventilated.
Before starting installation, all laminate is recommended to carefully examine. It is necessary to visually identify possible damage to locks and any deviations on the front surface. If you managed to detect such panels, they can be used as a trimming, removing defective sections.
Cleaning and strengthening the foundation
A rough concrete floor before laying a laminate is recommended to clean from various small sleeks (splashes of paint, spacing drops) with a spatula, after that room you need to clean the construction vacuum cleaner. Porous and loose ties makes sense to negotiate before starting work. This will allow you to bind and strengthen the top layer of the base, to avoid subsequently the appearance of dust.
Arrangement of waterproofing
The separation waterproofing layer is always made. It is necessary in order to prevent possible wetting of the flooring due to moisture penetrating through the overlap. This is especially true for premises that are located above the basement, above the bathrooms, above the arches, etc.
A polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 millimeters is used as a waterproofing membrane, whose canvases are rolled with overlap of about 10-15 centimeters to the entire area of the room.
Deploying a damper substrate
The substrate is used to provide insulation of shock noise and leveling small irregularities. To this end, different materials can be used (cork, foamed rubber, foamed polyethylene, plant mats ...), but the main thing is the density of the canvases or mats should be no less than 30 kg / m³.
Depending on the type of base, the thickness of the insulating layer is chosen:
- When installing a laminate on the wooden floor, a 2 mm thick substrate is used
- When installing laminate on the cement-sand tie (concrete), a substrate is used 3 mm
The canvas or mats are stacked over the waterproofing film. They are accurately online. In order for the substrate does not shift in the process of laying and operating the flooring - sheets glue together with the help of tape.
Installation of the first and major rows
Rows are recommended to place along the long wall of the room. But other options are also possible, for example, diagonally.
The styling is usually carried out "right to left". The first row begins with a whole panel, in its end it will be necessary to make trimming in such a way that the compensation gap of 10-15 mm in size remains with both edges.
It is necessary to make a gap for free expansion of flooring due to changing temperature and humidity indoors. Otherwise, the floating floor is drunk between the walls and can rise "house" on the seams.
Panels of most laminate models are inserted into each other without using any lubricants, sealants or adhesives.
Each subsequent element is started in the castle of the previous one at an angle. Without using auxiliary tools, hands, snaps in place. With any drawers to finish the laminate bar forbidden, as it is fraught with damage to the upper protective layer (this is at a minimum).
Sometimes laminate tiles enter each other too tight, and the master cannot start the bar simultaneously on the meek and long side. There is a way out of the position: first the entire row is assembled separately, and then this series is fully inserted into the already established flooring of the floor (for such a fintee, 2-3 people will most likely be involved).
Laminate is going in the form of a "floating" flooring, that is, it is not attached to the base.
The second row starts with the remainder of the panel, which the first row was completed so that the seam was spread in the neighboring rows. This is the most economical option, but also very often the tenet method is used, when each new row starts with a whole panel, then the row begin with 2/3 lengths, then 1/3 of the laminate length. Then this cycle is repeated.
There is the most important rule on the layout of the laminate, affecting the stability of the flooring - in the neighboring rows, the dispersion of the joints should be at least 30 centimeters.
For the cutting of the laminate, it is more convenient to use either a tracing saw (including the rotorizer), or an electric jigneus with a blank-cut-type saw, which has a teeth away to do not peel the laminate layer.
You can apply a special mechanical machine. In any case, many small caustic sawdust will be formed, which are desirable to immediately remove the vacuum cleaner.
For laminate marking, a roulette, a pencil, a joiner of a carbon is used before cutting.
After laying the first 3rd row of laminate, the finished section of the flooring is moving away from the wall by 10-15 mm, and in this formed clearance (and on the ends of the rows) you need to insert remote wedges.
As it laying, periodically follows the vacuum cleaner to remove dust and garbage from the surface of the substrate so that then the flooring does not creak when walking.
Setting the last row
To complete the work, the longitudinal cutting of the panels will be required. It must be done in such a way that after the final assembly in this part of the floor near the wall, the technological gap of up to 15 mm also remained.
Also temperature gaps need to be equipped near all other stationary elements of the house (staircase march, plumbing pipes, columns).
If the laminate is mounted in a long corridor, then every 10 meters in the flooring it is necessary to leave an expansion clearance, closed with a decorative "nastelnik".
Sometimes there are difficulties with the latching of the last row, then various wedges come to the rescue, or a special Z-shaped mount.
Completion of work
When the entire plane is removed by laminate, all remote wedges are removed from the gaps near the walls. Clamps of vacuum cleaners, after which you can start the installation of plinths, to the installation of interroom doors and fastening of cash.
After the assembly, the laminated floor is recommended to be washed (but not by abusing water). It should be borne in mind that during the week, the residual technological smell of the flooring is possible, so the room must be operating at least 2 times a day. Also, it is not necessary to scare the scripts, the first time arising when walking on the flooring is a mechanical adaptation to permissible irregularities that will end after several days of operation.
Can the outdoor cover be inexpensive, reliable and easy to install? There is a material that combines these incompatible properties. This is a laminate floor. Therefore, it is the most popular among other types of coatings. To lay the laminate with their own hands, you need to know the features of the material and the subtleties of working with it so that the service life is as long as possible.
Laying of laminate
The main question appears when choosing an outdoor coating is whether the laying is possible with their own hands? Yes, and very easy! Just need to know technological features. We will tell you how to lay the laminate with your own hands, with a step-by-step instruction. You will be able to qualitatively implement the assembly, without referring to expensive services of professional masters. Our detailed article will introduce you to all secrets and features of laying this floor covering.
Purchase of laminate
Before buying a laminate, it is worth familiar with the parameters affecting its quality and cost. It happens that the same laminate is significantly different in price. This is because some manufacturers are included in the price margin for brand and marketing tricks.
What laminate to choose?
So what to pay attention to? Laminate varies in classes, 21-23, 31-33, and thickness, from 4 to 12 mm. The optimal thickness of this flooring should correspond to the type of room, where its laying is assumed. The class of laminate is indicated by two digits, where the first indicates the type of room, and the second is the wear resistance coefficient, which implies impact resistance and moisture resistance. For example, if the bedroom is suitable for the laminate of the minimum thickness and a light degree of load, it is better to choose a class higher for the kitchen.
For a visual understanding, consider the classes Read more:
|Laminate class||Level of wear resistance||Type of room||MM thickness|
|22.||Middle||Hall, living room||5|
|23.||Tall||Kitchen, hallway, children||5|
|33.||Tall||Café, shops, gym||12|
From the table you can see:
- Classes 21, 22, 23 are designed for Household use , 31, 32, 33 - Commercial destination ;
- The greater the thickness, the higher the level of load.
Table with laminate classes
Laminate class affects its cost . Therefore, the choice of increased thickness for home use is not always justified. Yes, 33 class has maximum moisture resistance, wear resistance and shockproof properties. But its main purpose is public places with great permeability, and for the same kitchen in the house will perfectly serve a grade 23 laminate.
There is also such a nuance as a manufacturer's warranty. The warranty period from the manufacturer may vary from 15 to 30 years . Sellers can give this parameter as a weighty argument in favor of coating at a higher cost. Do not decease. The plant guarantees the service life of that coating, the installation of which was carried out by certified masters.
What kind of coating can be laminate?
The basis can be any preceding coating - cement, tile, wood, linoleum. It is necessarily only that this surface is solid and aligned. Therefore, it is necessary to make sure whether it is smooth enough. After that, you can start the assembly of the laminate. Permissible deviation by 1 or 2 mm, not more. Only under the observance of this condition the board will not be fed, and will lie smoothly and tightly. With a larger difference, cracking or breakage of the laminate board is possible. Check if there is a deviation using the rule or profile.
Important: Laying of the laminate coating is possible only on the purified, aligned base without cracks, irregularities and other defects.
It is best to lower the laminate coating on the concrete floor. The bulk base is perfect. If there are irregularities on the concrete floor, exceeding the allowed norms, they need to be aligned. In the case of cement floor, everything is easy - just pour a special tie. Concrete is therefore considered the best basis for floor coverings.
If concrete floor is smooth and clean You need to lay a substrate . What are the substrates for laminate floor:
- foamed polyethylene, budget option;
- polystyrene foam;
- Durable cork material;
- Multilayer substrates from different materials specifically designed to perform this function.
Substrates for laminate
If there is a need to align the base, it must be pre-prepared for the fill with a self-leveling mixture - cleaned and primed. The thickness of the first pillion layer should be at least 10 mm. When the surface is driving, re-primer is carried out, and another layer is poured. The room is better to close for a day, two to avoid the appearance of defects on the surface of the screed.
Stacking an outdoor board follows after reaching a solution at least at least 50% of strength. I would like to note that completely the screed dries in 70-80 days. You can not wait for 100% graze, if you use a polyethylene film under the substrate.
Cooking concrete floor for laying laminate
After reading the material completely, you will know how to lay a laminate for concrete floor yourself.
Laying of laminate on wooden floor
One of the frequent arising questions: Is it possible to lay a laminate on the wooden floor? In general, it is risky. Especially if the wooden coating is the composition. According to technological standards, it will be more correct to remove it, replacing it then on a full-fledged base from concrete. In this case, it will be necessary to do all the necessary work on the subtype, thermal insulation, preparation of the reinforcing belt. Only after that you can make a concrete tie. When the mixture is freezing, you can start raking the laminate panels.
Put the chipboard on the wooden floor
Until the fill is made, there is a possibility of a warm floor system. Is it possible to lay a laminate for the warm floors? Yes, if a special type of laminate board is used. It does not spoil from heating.
The complete replacement of an old wood coating on concrete is a very expensive event, both in terms of cost and in time. Therefore, usually prepare a wooden surface to mount a laminate coating without replacement. If, of course, the floor is not quite old. If lags with boards are damaged, it is better to rebuild them again or still make a screed.
Minuses Wooden coating as the basis:
- Details can "walk" in height;
- high probability of a screap when walking;
- Lags are breathable.
No need to lay a laminate for a creaking base. It is necessary to find and consolidate the precipitated plank. They can be further fastened or tied.
Preliminary preparation of the wooden base begins with the shy of unnecessary pieces protruding over the surface. The slots must be sharpened.
We put the chipboard on the wooden floor under laminate
Before laying a laminate on a wooden floor, you need to lay the alignment material on it. Usually a plywood is used for this. The optimal thickness of the plywood sheet for alignment is 10-12 mm. Plywood sheets are screwed by self-drawing. If there are more permissible differences, they will need racks of various thickness, already for plywood alignment.
It will be better if the junctions of plywood sheets will not coincide with the corners. So the load on them will be distributed evenly. Yet It is impossible to customize sheets . Wood has a property to change. Temperature, air humidity affect the state of the tree. Therefore, there must be small gaps between the sheets of plywood. They are needed to avoid distortions if the tree starts to "move" - to breathe or expand.
If the wooden floor was not damaged, and the plywood sheets are laid smoothly, such a base for laminate will last long.
Laying on linoleum
In many apartments, Linoleum is laid on the floor. And when it comes it to changing the floor covering, there is a completely reasonable question: is it possible to lay a laminate for linoleum. Usually there are no contraindications to this. There is even some positive moment. Linoleum provides additional sound insulation.
Laying of laminate on linoleum
But there are cases when Do not use Linoleum as a base:
- Uneven floor. If there are pits, bloating, big differences, better remove linoleum and pay attention to alignment.
- The coating is very old. Linoleum, which began to collapse, will swell. It can spoil the laminate coating, not to mention aesthetics.
- It is undesirable as the basis of a linoleum of high softness. This is fraught with the appearance of creaks on laminate when walking.
Substrate under laminate
On the prepared base, aligned and purified, must first lay the substrate. The main role that it performs is to protect the castle compounds of laminate from the destructive effects of external load. This is achieved by depreciation of steps on the floor and redistribution of pressure on it.
Substrates floor laminate
The substrate has both additional properties:
- hides small irregularities of permissible sizes;
- drows out noise;
Types of substrate
Polyethylene foamed. This is the most affordable view. Therefore, he is very popular. The advantages include increased moisture resistance and low cost. The polyethylene substrate is made by rolls, which simplifies work with it. A low price justifies its obvious cons: low thermal conductivity, sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, no noise insulation.
Types of substrates for laminate
Polyeneetylene Briefly. He quickly loses the shape. The level of damping, or depreciation, in other words, is reduced over time. Because of this, the castle connections quickly break. In a word, foamed polyethylene significantly reduces the life of the laminate floor. Therefore, it is desirable to apply only under cheap coating with a time-comparable service life.
Polysto foam substrate
Important: The substrate of polyethylene is suitable only under cheap laminate.
Polystyrene foam . This type of substrate is medium in cost and quality. Foamed polystyrene has the ability to keep the shape well and drown noise. The substrate surface has a greater density, so small irregularities smoothes well. At the cost of polystyrene foaming more than polyethylene, but more affordable than a cork substrate. Release form - plates and rolls. Due to an acceptable value in combination with good properties, this material is used more often than the rest. The only argument against is the impossibility of laying on a warm floor.
Substrate polystyrene foam
Polyurethane on foil . It is recommended as a substrate if there is a warm-alone system. It has the best properties necessary for the substrate. For the price - a little cheaper traffic jams. The properties of the substrate directly affect the service life of the laminate. Therefore, the purchase of a good substrate under the road laminate is a justified investment.
Polyurethane on foil
Important: For a warm floor, a substrate is suitable for laminate from foil polyurethane.
Cork substrate . Make it from a natural cork crumb. Release form - rolls. This is probably the best substrate for flooring. Unconditional advantages: durability, stability resistance, high thermal insulation properties, good noise insulation. There are cons. Cork substrate does not like heating and moisture. In addition, it must be laid on an ideally smooth surface due to low leveling ability. The joints of the joints when laying should be glued with scotch, so that there are no cracks.
The type of premises where you can apply a plug - residential rooms, without a warm floor, where low or normal humidity and there is no risk for coating to be flooded with water. Despite the excellent properties, the substrate for laminate from a natural cork is used infrequently. This is due to a high price.
Bituminous-cork on cellulose . The cost is close to the cork. Available to use with a warm floor system.
IMPORTANT: The best and, at the same time, the most expensive substrate is a genuine cork. But it is not suitable for a warm floor.
In addition to the above types of the substrate, many new products appear on sale. Basically, these are little-known materials that have not passed any tests. Therefore, it is better to be guided by the recommendations of the manufacturer. They are usually listed in the instructions on the package.
Does the polyethylene film need under laminate?
The main purpose of the polyethylene film under the substrate when laying a laminate - Protection against moisture penetration From the inside If under the floor is a basement with high humidity, the use of the film is simply necessary. It is placed under the substrate of the mustache and sink scotch.
Polyethylene film under laminate
There is also a risk of moisture appearance from below when laying on a not fully dried cement screed. This is the problem of almost all modern new buildings from the monolithic concrete. The screed will dry over 2 months. Many are not ready to wait so much. Even dear, high wear resistance, the laminate will deteriorate from moisture, begins to swell and creak. Therefore, it is desirable to use a polyethylene film.
IMPORTANT: Many manufacturers of laminate coatings are always recommended to use a polyethylene film when installed.
How to lay a substrate
Now consider how to properly lay the substrate under the laminate.
Start laying out or roll out the substrate material it is necessary along the wall from which laying will be made. As a result, the substrate should overlap the entire length of the floor along the desired wall. The entire floor of the room is immediately better not to be styled by the substrate so as not to go along it. The next strip along the wall must be treated as needed.
Place the substrate
The junctions should be tightly combined and sneaking with scotch. If there are small gaps between the joints, nothing terrible. Not allowed Laying the substrate of the mustache, because the laminate should evenly lay down to it.
For the speed of the edge of the substrate, the construction staple is sometimes fixed. But it is better to spend a little more time on the sizing scotch than then listen not to very pleasant sounds of friction brackets about a laminate board.
Important: It is impossible Lock the backstage.
Laminate laying tools with their own hands
Before starting installation work on laying a laminate, you need to prepare all the necessary instructs.
- Hammer and Dobanim. They are needed to fit the laminate panels to each other. A trouser will fit a tree from a tree. It is impossible to knock right through the panels, because castles may damage.
- Stationery knife. Need to open the packaging.
- Cornel, pencil, roulette. We will need to apply markup.
- Wedges. They will be needed to comply with the required gap between the wall and the coating.
- Montup. With the help of a special bracket, the boards of the last row are stacked.
- Electric jigsaw. Lobzik is needed for sawing boards. You can even cut the laminate even any manual saw that is at hand. Cuts are required small - the board is sawing across.
How to cut the laminate
Laminate when cutting must lie face up. So the burrs will not form at the edges of the facial surface.
In order for the cutting line to be smooth, metal guides are used - rules and squares.
The last row requires special attention. The boards for this row almost always have to be cut along.
Often an emerging question - how to lay a laminate, along or across the room. There is no special rule in this regard. There is only one subtlety, the observance of which is recommended, and then for the visual effect. If you lay a laminate board perpendicular to the window item , Then the light will fall along the seams, and they will become less noticeable. Alternately, you can also lay a laminate. In this case, the butts of the boards will simply be more visible. It looks very nice and visually expands the room laying diagonally. But this option is more complicated - skill requires, and waste will be more.
Laying of laminate
In general, when installing are the most complex assembly of the first and last rows. Putting first, it is necessary to observe the gaps along the wall. In the last row, you will need a lot of time on sawing boards and dusting in the doorway with a coating in another room.
The main rule of proper laying of the laminate is the shuttle offset. Each transverse joke must be 400 mm from the following. So the load will be optimally distributed over the entire surface, and the coating will be more wear-resistant.
The assembly of the next row always begins with a segment of the previous plank. With such an incomplete piece, one even row should be started. This embodiment is considered traditional. It is called "layouts with offset half of the board." Odd rows with this option always start with a whole panel.
Important: The distance between transverse seams of adjacent panels should be at least 40 cm.
You can still put a laminate board with a ladder. With this laying, the minimum allowable seam shift must be observed. Usually this parameter is indicated on the package. The first row starts with a whole plate, the next - from 1/3 of the total length, the third - 2/3. It turns out a kind of ladder.
Instructions for laying laminate with their own hands
The technique of installation of this floor cover is always the same. There are only features when connecting boards depending on the type of lock.
Laminate laying instructions
Now consider step-by-step instructions, how to lay the laminate with your own hands.
- First you need to prepare, clean the vacuum cleaner and disperse the surface of the base.
- When the surface is cleaned and leveled, if necessary, it is necessary to sash the brass film from polyethylene. The edges are fixed with adhesive tape.
- Now the substrate is unfolded or roll off, strips along the desired wall. The joints should be tightly adjacent. Also stuck in a sticky ribbon.
- Wedges are placed around the perimeter. Their thickness is 10 mm. They will create a small indentation between the floor and the walls. Due to this, air circulation around the floor covering is carried out. This will help avoid damage to the laminate when it is hot or humid in the room.
- The first row must be started to lay on the part, which is opposite the door. All panels of the first row must rest in the wedge of the retirement. Each panel is fitted with the neighboring.
- The last plank of the row may be too long. It must be trimmed, taking into account the prepared indents.
- The next panel band should be started with half or a third of the board, according to the scheme.
- All rows are sequentially stacked.
- The table of the final series will need to cut along. The main thing is not to cut off spike.
If the form of the room is geometrically correct, there should be no difficulties when laying.
Important: Laminate before installation should be adapted to the temperature and humidity of the room. Therefore, in a couple of days before the alleged laying, it is necessary to put the packaging with a floor covering into this room.
How to eliminate junctions between multi-level coatings of adjacent rooms
We looked at how to put laminate correctly. But there is another important point.
Often, at installation, multi-level joints are formed between the laminate and the threshold or flooring of the adjacent rooms. How to deal with them?
They are easily neutralized with the help of thresholds. If you need a straight joint, a metal threshold is suitable. He is the most durable. For joints that are curved, there are flexible bellows.
Types of thresholds :
- single-level - the most common, designed to dock laminate coatings in adjacent rooms;
- Multi-level - used to dock the laminate floor with another surface, the level of which differs in height;
- unilateral - applied to docking with doors;
- angular - For connecting coating under the inclination of 90 degrees.
Methods of laying depending on the type of castle
Methods of installation of laminate floor depend on the type of lock on the board, Click or Lock. It is impossible to confuse them, because the manufacturer indicates a package which connection is used.
Method of laying with lock connection Click.
This technology involves assembling without a hammer. Boards are collected successively. Each next panel should be brought to the already installed 45 degrees. Then the spike must be inserted into the groove, running out. The castle received such a name due to the characteristic feature. When the spike enters the groove, it gives a click. With such technology, the panel is first bonded by side connections, and then longitudinal.
CLICK laying method
Laying with key connected Lock
This method has differences from the previous one. The spikes are inserted into the groove on the side, and without a queen with Dobochnik not to do. Such technology implies the assembly first of the series, and then their connection. The boards of one row must be smoothly decomposed on the floor, parallel to each other.
So, we examined in detail how to put the laminate with their own hands. It remains to clarify another moment. Connection " Schip-groove »Does not make an outdoor surface with hermetic. Water can still get between the seams. However, special glue can significantly reduce the likelihood of entering the water coating.
The glue is applied to the spikes immediately before assembly. But this method has a significant drawback. The resulting floor covering will become monolithic. Replace if necessary, several rolls will not work.
How to make the floor to be reliable, beautiful, easy in laying and at the same time it cost? These seemingly incompatible qualities are combined in laminate. Therefore, this flooring is used more and more. However, the floor serve for a long time, you just need to know the fineness of the technology. For example, before leaving the laminate, it is necessary to check how even reason. The maximum allowable deviation is not more than 1-2 mm per meter of the surface. Only with this condition it will lie tightly, will not be fed and creaked. If the differences are more, maybe even the lock breaks or crack the board.
If the base has irregularities, the dimensions of which exceed the permissible, it must be aligned. For cement floors, everything is simple - an aligning screed is poured. Raise laminate begin after the solution will drop at least 50% of the strength.
If the old wooden floor serves as a base, it is necessary to remove it, then make a full cement floor, with all the necessary layers (submet, hydro and heat insulation, reinforcing belt and tie). It is possible to build a heating system in this floor, and it is already on the warm floor to carry out an outdoor coating. Only in this case it is necessary to use special varieties of laminate, which are well tolerated heating. The cost of such a floor is high, and there is a lot of time on its device. Therefore, it is not always done. If the lags and boards are not damaged, you can align the wooden floor of the plywood, and on it already laying the laminate.
When aligning the wooden floor, all strongly protruding fragments are shying with a planer or with a cycle, the cracks close up with putty. On the prepared old wooden floor laid plywood sheets (it is used more often, although you can put any sheet material with a flat surface). They are fixed with self-draws to the floor: around the perimeter after 15 cm, in the middle of a checkerboard order.
Sheets are shifted - they should not coincide (see the photo below). So more uniformly transmitted load. Another point is between sheets. Leave some gaps - they should not be driven close to each other. Wood changes dimensions depending on humidity and temperature. And these gaps will give the necessary freedom to not arise "humps" and distortion.
Laying plywood on the wooden floor under laminate is a common way to prepare the base during repairs. If the wood was not damaged, and the plywood was laid smoothly, does not "play" and does not bend, such a base serves years
Substrate under laminate
On the smooth and clean base first lay the substrate. It grows those irregularities in 1-2 mm, which are permissible and makes the floor less "noisy." It serves for depreciation and better redistribution of the load.
The substrate makes several types:
- Cork. Made from cork crumb. It has good thermal insulation properties, absorbs sounds. Disadvantages: moisture is afraid and does not like heating. Therefore, the area of its use is without heating the floor, with the normal importance and minimum risk of "Flood". That is, it is residential rooms. The cork substrate under the laminate is used infrequently: expensive. Her if it is put, then more under the parquet board - for the preservation of the floor covering.
- Bitumen-cork on cellulose basis. On the cellulose layer, impregnated with bitumen, fastened small fragments of traffic jams. This substrate is a bit cheaper than cork, but its main plus - it can be used for laying on top of the warm floor system.
- From foamed polyethylene. Well tolerates increased humidity, it does not heat the heat, chemically neutral, the runoff to the effects of bacteria, it is convenient to work (produced in the form of rolls), has a small price. Disadvantages: sensitive to the effects of ultraviolet, quickly loses the form, has a small service life, badly "extinguits" sounds. Therefore, this substrate is used under cheap laminate: their operating deadlines are comparable.
- From polystyrene foam. It has quite greater density, which is smoothes irregularity, keeps the form well, has good thermal insulating properties, dries sounds. Disadvantage: Cannot be used for laying laminate on a warm floor. The price is located between cork and polyethylene, is the most acceptable and used most often. Produces more often in the form of plates, sometimes in rolls.
- Polyurethane on foil. This type of substrate can also be used for laying under laminate on a warm floor. It has the best characteristics of all the above, as the best prices. But if you are going to put an expensive laminate, then it is justified costs: the quality of this type of flooring depends on the quality of the substrate.
How to lay a substrate
The substrate under the laminate is rolled (unfolded) along the wall with which laying will begin. Long it should block the entire floor from the wall - to the wall. The links of the joints are combined tight, for convenience they are sick of scotch. Sometimes the panels fix the brackets from the construction stapler. It is faster, but the brackets are not very good - they can rub about the board and make an unpleasant sound. The next layer is spread as needed - immediately to put the entire floor is not necessary: it is better not to walk on the substrate.
In which direction to lay a laminate with your own hands? There are no strict rules, but there are recommendations. To smaller the joints along the boards, the direction of light should go along the board. It turns out beautifully if you lay the coating at an angle. But this method is more complicated and waste obtained more. You can lay and across the light - this is also practiced, and nothing, except for more visual seams, does not threaten.
The main rule that needs to be observed during laminate flooring is the shuttle offset. The minimum transverse seam should be at a distance of 40 cm from the other. So the strength of the floor cover will be greater: the boards under load will not disperse.
Laminate laying scheme should be developed taking into account this rule. The simplest for independent execution is the offset of half the board. Then every odd row begins with the whole, and every even - from halves (or vice versa).
If the length of one element exceeds 1.2 m, then the second row can be shifted to 1/3, the third on 2/3 of the length (as in the photo above). It turns out a kind of "ladder". In some types of laminate (expensive), the minimum bums offset are significantly less - can be 15 cm. This is indicated on the package or in the accompanying instruction.
Perhaps you will be interested to read about the technical features of the design of a wooden house inside or about the design of the premises in wooden houses.
How to lay a laminate with your own hands: step bypass
Stacking technology is the same: there are only some features when connecting elements depending on the locks. The procedure will be like this:
- The substrate is placed on the aligned base, they are punctured by the scotch of its joints.
- Clocks or pieces of plywood with a thickness of 10-15 mm are installed around the perimeter of the room. They will drip the boards of laminate. In this way, the compensation gap throughout the perimeter of the room is created. It is needed in order for the coating to be inhaled into the heat or with high humidity.
- Along one of the walls - usually opposite from the entrance - the first row laying begins. The first row is located spike to the wall (it can be cut). The whole row rests on the clins, measuring the gap. The extreme rests in the clins also the side lock (it can also be cut).
- All elements in the row are joined with each other.
- The last board is often necessary to trim: not included in length. From this side, the clins must also stand, because the size is less than 10-15 mm than the distance to the wall. We place for cutting as follows: the board turn the "face" down so that the desired side spike is to be right. I kill this edge with a clina, carbon carrying a line that continues the edge of the installed board. Along the applied line, we spill the desired piece and install.
- If the first row began with a whole board, then the second starts from half, third, etc. So all rows are collected. At the same time, the reference is the developed laying scheme.
- The last row often needs to trim in width. Difficult nothing, the main thing is not to confuse, from which side cut off: leave the part on which the spike.
If the geometry of the room is correct, no difficulties. If there are skews - you have to trim. Issues may arise when finishing the threshold: the board near the jambs is cut not exactly, but on the arc, with the preservation of the gap of 10-15 mm. Why on the arc? So, under the door platband, any form will not be holes.
Laminate laying methods: Two locks - two methods (video instructions)
Laminate laying technology depends on which castles on your floor covering. They make two species - "Click" (Click) and Lok (Lock). You do not confuse, because the system is written on the packaging of each pack, and the pictograms explaining the principle of laying on many many.
Method without a hammer - Clear "Click" (Click)
When using the locks "Click" it is more convenient to collect a plank one by one. The system is named so due to the characteristic click, which is heard when the spike is entry into the groove. With such a system, first connect the side locks, then longitudinal. This happens like this:
How to raise a laminate with the lock "Click", see the video.
How to Fit with Lock Lock (Lock)
The lock should be inserted on the side and the assembly method is different. It will take a piece of laminate with a spike and light hammer (rubber cizyanka). The boards are folded on the floor, correct that they lay exactly one relative to the other. Move the spike to be close to the groove, insert the laminate cut from the other side and tap it with a hammer, achieving a connection.
The method is also simple, but requires caution: the hammer can be too hard to hit and break the castle. Then you have to use another element.
With this method, it is more convenient to drain the laminate first collecting individual rows, and then connect them. This is schematically displayed in the photo below.
For more information about this method, see the video. There is no sound row, but everything is clear.
The laminate laying methods described above can be made almost sealed, in any case a lot to reduce the amount of water that can get into the surmise space. For this use special glue. They are missing the spikes of stacked boards. It preserves its elasticity for 10 minutes, therefore apply adhesive immediately before installation.
The disadvantage of such technology is that the coating becomes almost monolithic. If you need to replace one or more boards, it will not work.
How to cut off the laminate
You can cut the boards of laminate:
- electrolovka (most convenient);
- Manual disk saw.
In order for the sink on the front surface, burrs did not form, the "face" she should lie up. In order for cuts to be even, the guides are ruler (strips) from metal or wood. When using hacksaw, the ruler should not give the opportunity to "climb" on the desired half.
When cutting across it is more convenient to use the coal. It is pressed to the long side, the second serves as a guide.
Many believe that only professionals can lay the laminated flooring. But, if you figure it out in all parts of installation, the process will seem uncomplicated. How to put a laminate for which you pay attention to and what nuances take into account, read in the article.
Preparation for laying laminate
Several tips will help you save time and nerves in the future. After all, it is important not only to cool the boards, but also prepare for work.
Buy material about 10% more than required. Consider both the probability of marriage, and the fact that some elements will have to trim and customize the perimeter of the room. We also advise you to leave a couple of planks in case of a swollen sex so that you can repair it yourself.
Enter the laminate in the room, and let him lie a few days. Only after 2-3 days start laying. Wood fibers are mobile and change the size depending on the medium. Give them the ability to adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room.
While the laminate gets used to the future place of residence, prepare the floor. If the draft coating wooden Check if all the boards are well fixed, and there is no cracks. In case of detection of irregularities or a loose fit of the planks to each other, pass the surface. If you do not remove the swelling and creaking before laying, it will be impossible to get rid of these defects. We will have to dismantle the coating.
Concrete The floor must be aligned if it has irregularities above 2 mm. To eliminate defects, a self-leveling screed is used. Do not hurry and wait for it to dry. Laminate is put on a completely dry floor.
To check whether the screed dried out, leave it on the night of polyethylene, hermetically gluing it around the perimeter of the scotch. For this, a sufficiently small area, for example, 50x20 cm. If the condensate appeared in the morning, starting the laying early.
Lay the foundation for laminate
The substrate performs several functions. She muffles the steps of households, smoothes the irregularities of the floor, protects the involnee side of the boards from moisture and retains heat.
The correct selection of the substrate provides long and trouble-free operation of the laminate.
Watch that the substrate is completely uniformly covered the floor. You can not attend the edges of the Vangest: You will create additional pests. So that the joints were perfectly smooth, use paint or aluminum scotch.
How to put on your own laminate: step-by-step instructions
Now go to the main part: laying laminated boards.
We will negate that in this section we are talking about models with locks "Lock" and "Click". The principle of their flooring is the same. The montage of the adhesive cover will be discussed below.
How to put laminate with your own hands: General recommendations
There are general rules when working with laminate. Follow them so that the coating fell smoothly, did not swell after 5-10 years, and the gaps did not appear.
There are two ways to lay a picture: classical и chess . In the first case, you cut the last panel and start the next row with its balance. The junctions will turn down the steps. If all the slats are stacked in length without trimming, their junction is across the room. This may lead to the fact that the locks will break, in addition, the drawing will be ugly. To avoid this, cut one board in half and spread it in the next row on the sides. Get a chess layout.
So that the locks are not deformed during the docking process, the distance between the transverse joints of the previous and subsequent rows should be at least 40 cm.
Now go directly to your actions. Phased on, we need to do.
Start work from any wall. Place the panels perpendicular to the window so that the sunlight emphasizes and beat the drawing.
The laminated boards on the two sides of small grooves, on two - large. To set the direction of the first row, position the board with small protrusions to the wall.
Put the lamella and install the wedges to set the desired distance from the wall.
We apply the second part to the castle at an angle of 30 degrees. Align her so that the boards form a single line, without the slightest protrusion. Smoothly lower until the lock is snapped. So continue to the end of the row.
Many masters recommend lubricate the castles in PVA glue. Over time, the lamel can be deformed, and slots are formed on the place of the junction. Glue will prevent the appearance of cavities.
If you need to trim the last board, consider that the item is needed by 10 mm shorter to withstand the gap between the wall. Shuffling her, follow, in which direction castles are located.
If you feed the lamella with electric jigsaw, hold it on both ends. Otherwise, a fragile castle will break.
Start the second row from there, from where the first. Put the board with a narrow side over wide of the previous row. Similarly, connect the entire line.
Now you need to docile two rows. Start from the beginning of the second. Lift the boards and slightly push on them, pushing from yourself. Do so to the end. If the wall is uneven, put the wedge so that the line is leveled.
Check for no gaps. Even the minimum gap, where can barely fit the blade of the stationery knife, will reduce the service life of the coating. Use a special dober for a laminate and humeuting along the entire length to eliminate the poor-quality clutch.
We recommend buying a set for laying a laminate so that all the tools are at hand and did not have to purchase anything additionally, interrupting installation.
Repeat actions until you reach the end of the room.
As a rule, the boards for the final series must already be than ordinary. But it is necessary to cut them with the possible irregularity of the walls. Measure the distance from the wall to the previous row on both sides of the lamella and only after that shocked it.
To lock the last row, picker it with a metal screw (hook) and pull on yourself. Grooves are fixed.
If you want the laminate to serve not one decade, check all the joints. There should be no gap. Especially carefully evaluate areas under batteries. As a rule, errors in work are found in hard-to-reach places.
How to lay flexible glue-based laminate
The adhesive coating is mounted immediately on the draft floor, so it is necessary not only to align the surface, but to eliminate even the minimum gaps and continue to be primed, with the exception of the wooden floor. This will provide a dense clutch with laminate. In addition, the base should be perfect dry. You do not steer the substrate, so any amount of moisture may be destructive for the coating.
Flexible laminate easy to lay. You remove a protective coating from the base of the plank and glue it to the floor. You can start from any angle. You do not need to leave the distance from the wall to 1 cm: you can do it closely, or leave the gap 2-3 mm. For this use tile crosses.
The principle of laying is the same as when installing ordinary laminate. But each part is fixed on the peak on the protruding part of the previous element with the adhesive edge. For reliability, you can join the joints with a hand or spend several times by rolling roller.
Crop the lamella with a building knife. First you cut it up, then bend it, and it is prehast. If you need to cut the angles around the columns or other items, the wizards advise the use of cardboard patterns. So you will avoid mistakes in calculations and marriage.
After mounting, go through the floor to enhance the clutch.
Laying of laminate - a sideline for beginners. The main thing is to be patient and additional boards. But we do not call for mounting the coating yourself. If you doubt your abilities, trust this business a professional. Knowing the styling process, you can always evaluate the quality of his work and immediately identify the shortcomings if they are.
Laminate is one of the most popular flooring on the Russian market. And this is quite logical and justified, because it combines beautiful appearance, reliability, strength, excellent performance and available cost. Pleasant Bonus: Laying of the laminate - the process is quite simple and can even cope with him, far from construction. The main thing is to know some nuances and follow certain rules.
Laying laminate forces to everyone
Prepare the foundation
The base must be smooth. The maximum possible deviation does not exceed 2 mm per meter of the floor surface, otherwise the coating will creaking, flexing, can crack or board. Align the base is easy.
If we are talking about a concrete field, you need to pour an aligning screed. It is possible to start laying the laminate after the strength of the solution reaches 50%.
The durability of the outdoor coating will depend on the quality of the cement screed
If there are wooden floors in the house, it is necessary to remove all the boards and equip the cement gender (there is a rapidage, waterproofing, thermal insulation, then the reinforcing belt and screed).
If there is no time for the installation of the correct cement coating, and the boards and lags of the wooden floor are not damaged, it is possible to use Phane to the alignment to which the laminate will later be subsequently. When laying plywood, make sure that the sheets of sheets do not coincide - the chess order provides the possibility of the maximum uniform distribution of the load on the floor. It is necessary to leave small gaps between plywood sheets, since when the wood and humidity drops, the wood changes linear dimensions.
Laying plywood for wood alignment
Useful advice! If you want to make heated floors, use special types of laminate, distinguished by resistance to temperature increase.
Types of substrates for laminate
Smooth and clean base prepared? It's time for mounting lining - it is the lining that allows you to remove the error of 1-2 mm, which is allowed by the instructions for laying the laminate. Among other useful functions, the substrate can be distinguished with depreciation, the optimal distribution of the load, a decrease in the "noise" of the floor.
Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, choose different types of substrates.
How easy it is to guess from the name, the material is made from cork chips. The advantages of the option include excellent heat and sound insulation properties. There are disadvantages - the cork substrate is characterized by sensitivity to high humidity and temperatures and heated floors it does not fit. This is quite expensive pleasure.
Bituminous-cork substrate on cellulose
The cellulose layer is impregnated with bitumen and a cork crumb is embanked on it. Unlike cork substrate, bitumen-cork is not afraid of elevated temperatures and can boast more attractive cost.
Polyethylene foam substrate
Among the advantages is distinguished resistance to high humidity, chemical neutrality, resistance to bacteria, affordable cost and convenience. If we talk about disadvantages, this is an increased sensitivity to ultraviolet, a short service life and bad "quenching" sounds. The substrate of foamed polyethylene is the optimal option when laying a cheap laminate, since the shelf life of the substrate and flooring will be comparable.
Due to the big density, this type of substrate perfectly smoothes irregularities. It is characterized by excellent heat insulating and sound-absorbing properties. But not the best option when laying a laminate on the "Warm floor" system. In terms of cost, this is an intermediate version, which is located between cheap polyethylene and expensive cork substrates in the price category.
Polyurethane on foil
The optimal option, if you plan to laying a laminate on a warm floor. It has good performance characteristics and pleases adequate value.
Basic types of substrates for laying under laminate
Laying the substrate for laminate
First you need to choose the wall with which the floor mounting will begin. Along the walls rolled the substrate under the laminate so that it will be covered with the entire floor - from the wall to the wall. The lines of the joints must be combined tight. For the substrate to keep the place well on the place allotted for it, the sheets did not shift relative to each other, the joints can be sampled with a scotch or fix the brackets from the construction stapler.
Useful advice! Do not block the entire floor with the substrate immediately - it is better to spread each next layer as needed to not walk on the material.
Laminate laying schemes
There are several laminate laying options. Which to choose? The main rule - the direction of light should go along the laminate boards, then the joints will be practically invisible.
If you want to move away from templates, try to lay a laminate at an angle, but be prepared for a large amount of waste.
Basic laminate laying schemes
Another nuance, which you should know when laying a laminate is the need to displace the seams. The minimum distance on which one transverse seam should be from the other is 40 cm. Holding to this proportion, you can be sure of the maximum strength of the laminate laminate.
The most simple laminate laying scheme corresponding to the rule above is the offset of half the board. Start every odd row with a whole board, and each odd - from halves.
In case the length of one board exceeds 1.2 m, then the second row can not be shifted on half, and by a third. In this case, the third row relative to the first will be shifted already on 2/3 (relative to the second one - by a third) - as a result, you will get a ladder. The smaller the distance between the transverse seams, the longest there will be a ladder - the minimum bias displacement can often be seen when laying expensive laminate.
The most optimal variant of laying laminate
Laying of laminate with your own hands: Step by step instructions
If we talk generally, the laminate laying technology is the same. Small differences are due to different castles of laminate boards.
Graphic illustration of laminate laying technology
- The base of the floor is leveled, the substrate is stacked on it. Do not forget to smoke your scotch or connect the stalks of the substrate sheets.
- On the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to create a compensation gap - for this you need to install plywood pieces (10-15 cm thick) or special pegs, in which laminate boards will be dried. The gap is needed that the floor is not deformed when increasing humidity or temperature.
Creating a gap between the wall and the panel
- Determine the wall from which you start laying a laminate. Usually - this is the opposite of the wall input.
- The first row of laminate boards is located to the spike wall (if desired, the spike can be cut). The row should be restarted into the wedges, the extreme boards in the clins rest also with side castles. Do not forget to dock with each other all the boards walking in one row. If the last board is not included in length, it needs to be short.
Laying of the first row of laminate
- All boards of laminate are pretty down - they turn up face up (so that there is no burr) and they are sawing with an electric bike, hacksaws or a manual disk saw.
- If you started the first row with a whole board, the second must begin with halves. Put the laying scheme next to them - it will be easier to observe the necessary proportions.
- The last row often has to trim in width. Carefully monitor what exactly you cut off - the one part on which the spike is present should remain.
Pruning a laminated panel to the desired size
- When finishing the threshold, cut the boards near the jambs not exactly, but on the arc, while maintaining the required clearance of 10-15 mm, so that the hole remains under the door platband
Design of the joint between coatings in the doorway
In case the geometry in the room is perfect, no difficulties in laying laminate will arise. In the presence of distortions, the board will have to be cut.
Types of laminate castles
As mentioned above, the nuances in laminate laying technology are determined by the type of locks on the laminate. Locks in the modern market are represented by two varieties - "click" (Click) and Lok (Lock). It's hard to confuse - the system is prescribed on all packs, and there are pictograms that explain the principle of the connection everywhere.
From the type of lock depends the method of laying laminate
- If you use laminate with click locks, it is better to collect them one after another.
First, the side locks are connected, after which the longitudinal. Each new board is brought to the already installed at an angle of 45 degrees, the spike is inserted into the groove and boils with the back of the palm, after which the board can be omitted to the floor - the entire first row is so stacked. The second row begins to set the same way - the first board with a longitudinal groove is made to the installed and lowered down. Subsequent boards are first connected by the side lock, then longitudinal. All boards are snapped with a slight effort - sometimes they need to be palm.
Illustration of laminate laying with lock "Click"
Laying a laminate with a seamless click Look in the video:
- Laying of laminate with locks "Lock" is carried out according to another scheme - for installation you will need a light rubber hammer (cynicha).
First, the boards need to be decomposed on the floor, making the spikes as close as possible to the groove: on the other hand, it should be triggered by the hammer to bring the boards to connect (laminate trimming, it is necessary to damage the floor covering when tapping in China). In this case, it is more convenient to collect individual rows and then connect them.
Illustration of laminate laying with lock "Lok"
Laying laminate with locks "Lok" Look in the video:
Useful advice! If you want to make the floor almost sealed, use special glue, missing the spikes of laid floor elements. The glue retains its properties within ten minutes, because they apply it to the installation. But remember, the use of glue makes the floor with almost monolithic, and in case of damage to one laminate board, it will not be possible to replace the element.